Spring & Summer 2018 part 3

Taking some inspiration from the setting of the grand galleries, models posed as still-life emulating the portraits that hung on the walls in centuries past inside gilded frames latterly transformed into cabinets. As we where carried away with this new vision of life and beauty in the Sophia beautiful creations for spring twinkled before us and this season she showed children's pieces too with tiny, very well cared for, models. Above centre you can see some of the twinkle toed creations for small feet alongside flower fairy stilettos with rainbowed-coloured butterfly wings. Light playful colours, be they on clutch-purses or shoes evoke a playful sense of prettiness and who wouldn't want a purse in their hand adorned by beautiful butterfly's? 

Soft Lilacs moving towards White usher in more romance and wistful magic for the new season. A model seated on the enlarged heads of dandelion like flowers, like a Thumbelina Fairy. With her neat box clutch gently off-setting the natural angles of the figure, the eyes are drawn to the beautiful jewelled bracelet of her wrist shaped like flowers itself. Spiraling downwards from the knees to the feet the intricate detail of the bejewelled boots is both fanciful in it's sweetly luxurious composition and also a detailed show of craftsmanship. Sophia's knee-high boots are something of a calling card of her style and recognisable across her collections and loved by clients and admirers across the globe.

Moving the focus away from jewels to metalwork, the centre image shows both Gold and Copper in the body of the shoes as well as circling the arms and the fingers of the wearer and another box shaped clutch purse sits on the knees in a simple show of elegance. The pieces are cleverly crafted to be interchangeable with many outfits and you could rock them in the city as well as in Fairy Princess moments. Gem-set shoes supported at the ankle sparkle at the feet of wearers to the right. You can imagine them winking on the dance floor and shimmering under candle light. 

The cabinet's of delight above containing both purses and shoes are crowned by nature growing wild on the surface. Somehow it doesn't look the least bit out of place with the colours of earth and nature blending with the brighter colour statements of Sophia's designs. A trio of purses, as seen below with woven stitch detail shows beautiful floral designs in bucket tote, tubular and wrap-fold design. Gently hand-sewn in a high-craft style they fit seamlessly with the earth-centered design of the collection. A fairy's option for magic slippers sits by it's side in another cabinet with Golden and Cherry soles adding hints of fairy magic sealed with flower petals. To the right above a model sits in the branches of a tree with flowers playing across her feet and toes. It's a carefree natural look that is effortlessly pretty.        

Cabinet's looking slightly more pared down display sleek contemporary options with wedge platform and stiletto heels and sling back shoes creating a monochrome contrast providing subtle sophisticated style options. The box shaped clutch appears again, so easy to fit in the hand and I'm also reminded how easy these are to choose as gifts for friends and loved ones.

Smooth clear lines compliment the natural curves of the body at the feet and the lower calves. These offerings show both the light and delicate options such as the Black sandals that show the feet almost floating amongst flowers at the toes. These are looks that are versatile in their appeal for clients as Sophia deftly crosses age and social setting boundaries with ease.  

There is a feast of fashion at London Fashion Week each season and when it comes to luxury Ready to Wear there are a series of names who stand out as creators of serious luxury with a fresh angle and Emilio de la Morena is one of them. It was a huge please to shoot this collection on the catwalk and all of the looks seemed instantly wearable leaving you aching for the new season when they would be ready to buy. Opening the collection with a Navy Blue plumes of ruched sleeves a bold glamour statement with layered neat ruffles of Baby Pink providing a gente colour harmony. 

It's a beautiful piece of eveningwear that has the power of elegance to discreetly dazzle and will look fantastic on the Red Carpet and in front of the camera. To the right a White bandeau top with plumed fringing at the decolette and at the upper waist is a light and delicate piece that crosses from luxury to casual. A Navy Blue pencil skirt with plumed fringe on the left side descending from the waist sets the tone for one of the style themes of the collection. Beautiful flounces of fabric add a romantic kiss to the collection. Emilio reawakens one of the classic British textiles with his take on tweed in several looks of the collection with a playful bright Pink matching with Green and Orange and Red. A zipped up jacket and mini skirt bring tweed into the 21st century and restyle it for a young urban audience while still very much retaining a look of sweet beauty.  

Emilio doesn't go for edgy here and plenty of his clients have the same perspective. To the right a Hot Pink plays with style in cut innovation while the ruffles descending from the left hip to the hem are complimented by a flower to the side of the right of the bodice. This is another modern classic that could be evening wear or stun elegantly at day time receptions. He matched with fun Grey socks and sandles it shows how you have many options for styling a look to change the nuance. To the right a waterfall effect of ruffles adds to the innate femnine charm of the piece with demure off the shoulder detail in the upper part of the dress signalling an easy option for parties on warm days and nights.       

A wrap fasten skirt with pockets resting on the hips in the natural spring harmony of Pink and Green is twinned with a baby Pink tank top and high cut Pink silk jacket. Making a slightly sharper statement this look places itself in the sweet spot of formal wear given a slightly casual edge. This would look great on a date night or for spending time with friends and it once again captures Emilio's ability to create clothes that are comfortable but look perfect in front of the camera. A Duck-Egg Blue suit with lightly curved hem and gently cut pockets shows his ability to execute fine tailoring with an eye for what a younger generation and a non traditional mind set may prefer. To the right another wrap-style tweed skirt with pockets and high waist-cut long sleeved jacket show that sophistication can be a partner of mix and match styling. This fun style duo creates an elegant look for day or evening. To the right a Navy Blue dress, twinning in cut with the Pink dress above, is another sophisticated piece for day or evening that would look amazing on the Red Carpet. For premiers or private dinners Emilio hits the right spot time after time. To the right a split contrast of Amber shades translate an earlier dress shown into a brighter feature piece for a stronger statement.   

Seductive and elegant the above dress in a Midnight/Navy Blue is a charming piece to wear for the evening. You could dress this up further for Black or White tie events with jewellery or chose to wear simply by itself. To the right a pay on ruffles see a jewel of a dress composed of two layers of ruffles circling the figure like giant petals over a sheath of a dress. Jewel, itself is an apt word for this collection as the clarity of the colours evokes in many looks, the brightness of high jewellery pieces. Centre above ribbed details and ruching in a figure hugging dress sets of a look in delicate style. The medium toned brightness of the Pink is enough to draw attention to the detail of the garment but not so much as to overwhelm it. To the right a plunging neckline in White sits above layers of White ruffles hugging the figure and gently emphasising the beauty of female curves.

This piece, like much of the collection feels like an ode to feminine beauty. Taking a little inspiration from the sea perhaps, the outer layer of the next dress to the right is composed of Aqua-Marine green as part of the outer layering and moves gently over the White satin skirt beneath as the model walks. Another look that cross the spectrum from days wear to formal wear above to the right shows knee length Navy dress with a sheer neckline and arms descending through ruched layers to fluted hem detail. There are hints of Hollywood's Golden era here in the design with sunglasses looking like the perfect match for sunny days. I think this like many pieces in the collection does have year-round classic appeal too.    

Women with spending power, be they buyers, private clients or journalists want to see clothes by and large that they and their public will want to wear. Opening her first catwalk show with a clear note of White in an elegant suit, she made a strong themed note of freshness that lit up the theatre. In a clever innovation she used the cut of a man's shirt, long at the sleeves and dipped around the hem, to create a day-suit jacket with polished semi-precious stones and rocks forming buttons as they did in places through the rest of the collection. Wide leg trousers also matched the mood of the collection becoming the warmer airs of summer. An out-sized collar hints at the early years of Chanel and uniformity. The bag the model carries have a nod to the vintage in it's construction as do all the pieces carried in the collection. A baggy cut suit jacket on teal is paired with generous culottes fitted with a gentle pleat at the waist to give another variation on the suit theme. Charming stone buttons seal the double breasted look and this suit could be worn to the office for lunch on-board a yacht in the summer.  

Taking a vintage theme and making it new, the next look centre above is corseted lightly at the waist with the under layer meant to fasten exposed to form a belt of the dress. With long balloon sleeves softly cuffed and a full mid-calf skirt this is another confident working of easy casual chic. Again this is a fluid leisure or casual piece that crosses every age, just as much of the collection does. It shows Regina's unified vision for women. A suit in Hot Pink is filled with life and the double breasted jacket like it's Green counterpart sits loosely on the figure although it's neatly tailored. Wide cut pressed-crease trousers are a light option for both summer and inter-season wardrobes. To the right, a new variation on the bias-cut theme sees a line falling across the silhouette. The classic long denim skirt is given a flamboyant new look with a large fringe channelling Flamenco vibes with a sweeping dipped hem. To the right a sleeveless rounded collar neck in Black breaks the line of sheer pink with a pin-tucked hem again adding the extra touch of sweet and pretty. Although full-length it's still lihgt enough for Summer.                                         

The loose style White blouse is perfectly aligned with the clay white skirt beneath it composing a simple day-wear look that would suit many spaces in your life next season. Again this is another outfit that demonstrates how well Pyo understands the female figure as it can be worn by many women as can most of the collection. A twist on the traditional military coat appears next in a dress that is side-buttoned with detail echoing the epaulet position down through the hips to the legs. Cut generously at the arms, giving freedom of movement, it's a piece that could be worn to formal events. A subtle colour contrast is provided by the Teal Green flat shoes that make an easy summer pairing.

Evoking marine themes of warm days the centre and furthest right looks of Blue and White capture relaxed but well defined style. An open-necked Blue shirt ruched at the elbows is style smart for hot days and an easy wrap skirt tied at the waist is versatile and easy to add to the wardrobe. Pyo again makes a statement of femininity demonstrated in playing with design in shirt sleeves softly ballooned at the elbows, placed bet wen a buttoned collar and mid-arm length cuffs. A marine Blue skirt is cut dramatically in an asymmetric hem bridging the gap from mini to ankle length. Geological semi-precious stones again balance beauty with earth nature in the composition. An ankle length Red dress has echoes of ancient Spanish traditional clothing with a ruffled neckline and a dipped double layered hem in the lengths of the dress. Light and feminine this could be worn casually or for a more formal event replacing the Red choker with a necklace. Long cuffs borrowed from the design of shirt sleeves are a design innovation that brings a hint of practical utility to the garment and a small woven bag shows she is neatly prepared.                  

The White and Blue marine look morphs into an off the shoulder dress that again is easily adaptable for casual day or more formal evening events. Sitting more broadly on the hips than some garments may, this piece again emphasises comfort for the wearer and with the gathered ribbons of fabric at the neckline and pin-tucked hem fringe adding extra touched of feminine chic. Easily worn for the beach or ball. To the right a Black dress has echos of carefree Spanish style to my eyes, combined with the structures and habits of the traditional evening gown formulated in the mid twentieth century. Innovative touches are added with the thin straps supporting the garment at the shoulder alongside the banded sleeves at the lower arms. The skirt of the dress descends to lengths gently rising and falling like waves around the circle of the figure.

A golden silky dress echoing the styles of the Golden era of Hollywood. With silk moving like liquid across the figure as the wearer moves the dress is cut in the demure style common to the designs of Pyo with a low cut neckline and draped open-cut sleeves. It's a dream dress for a drinks party, Summer formal or a Red Carpet. Longer in length, it would suit both Black and White tie formal occasions. To the right, a long Black dress echos it's Red predecessor with slightly more dramatically emphasised ruffle layers and delicate sheer sleeves. Again you could swap the choker for a formal necklace if you wishes or wear the look just as is. Keeping the feel relaxed and informal the dress, like it's neighbours, is accompanied by slider sandals. To the right a Golden sleeveless dress takes a new perspective deconstructing formality by adding cuts to the fabric and making bowed twists from them. The body of the dress is composed of ribbon strips of silk giving an almost patchwork feel but rather than a Cinderella piece it has the stamp of originality on it that captures the pulse of Pyo's work.

In this collection for Summer 2018, she takes the familiar and transposes it into something that challenges the eye and makes you question. The opening look of the collection introduced the tone. A White t-shirt with cut-away sleeves sat off-centered across the shoulders matched with White tracksuit trousers the line was broken by a belt made from the off-cut of a denim shirt. It may in fact have come from the cut-away section of a look later in the collection as it looks to fit a gap in the outfit centre above. This mix and match approach is, I feel, a hint at how fashion can be looked at in a more sustainable way. Unfinished or undone does not necessarily mean beyond use and particularly in a care-free Summer wardrobe the casual feel to these pieces come into their own.

A tracksuit above to the left appears stripped down to it's basic elements in woven strands hanging together. Above centre a denim dress cut open becomes a caped jacket when matched to White trousers with both elasticated waist and jean cut-away threads. Possibly the most fascinating part of the collection was the mix of acrylic paint itself into the structure of many of the garments. To the right above a cut-away shoulder and torn-waist t-shirt continue the theme of deconstruction while the trousers are composed of paint work sitting over a close weave fabric I believe. Still wearable and easy to move in, it forms a direct synergy between art and style. To the right two looks demonstrated the blend of two elements seen so far, the thread composed top far right and the tracksuit styled trousers are teamed with an apron skirt and long blouse composed in the most beautiful print silks cut and torn by modern friction.

A slip dress is an eternal classic for the wardrobe and above to the left it's wardrobe staple soul-mate the denim shirt appears in piece work applique. It's a unique piece of inspiration, what two pieces of the wardrobe do all women have a some point in their lives? To the right a White jacket is teamed with a formal style baguette shaped purse contrasting with the cut-to-pieces jeans beneath it. The lines and form of the denim jacket are re-made with bold sweeps of acrylic paint composed into a sheer surface running between cloth and paint. Varnished, I would guess, and made into a wearable form this is a look that will turn heads and neatly crossed the bridge between established conventions of fashion and art. In a moment of rebellion the seem-less liquid-like surface of a slip dress is tattered and torn beneath the jacket showing the wearers probable rejection of convention. The open-necked summer shirt and lose summer skirt are given another lease or a more carefree life to the right above with another exploration of fashion becoming pieces of art that live on the figure.  

Opening with a strong modern statement the classic style of the man's pinstripe is softened into a combination of a bolero jacket sitting over a White shirt and a high-waisted pair of trousers to be worn with or without a belt. It's a sharp simple look with effortless international appeal to a broad client pool. To the right the soft pleats of the cream skirt of a nude and cream dress add dimension to the sleek lines of the bodice and formality of the Grey blazer. Set against the backdrop of the Grey pillars and the City of London landscape this blended perfectly and balanced minimalist tendencies with a more creative flair. This is still a look that can be worn for work or leisure or semi-formal events. To the right another minimal-style staple in a Grey rain coat sits over a light Blue shirt and wide legged navy trousers. Again there is the unmistakable touch of easy international style about this look and one that TOGA clients can trust when looking to put together a contemporary 'arts and urban' look.

Taking a step in a more artistic direction the belted tunic top to the left sits over a Navy pleat-skirted dress with a futuristic snap of style. Like a modern gladiatorix this piece shows confidence in the lines of conformation with the elbow length sleeves and skirt split accommodating the warmer days of Summer weather. The pinstripe suit gets a fresh kiss of life with a long line double breasted jacket casually turned up at the sleeves and the pleated skirt moved into the culotte style. Using a jacket that looks like a convert from the male wardrobe is also a deft nod to having the confidence to wear any look that you feel is appropriate for your style and matches your ambitions for the outfit that you want to create. Simple sling-back heeled shoes show the ease of adding modern flare to the look.

Centre above an androgynous look is styled with Black narrow trousers, large White shirt and Grey suit jacket. A nod to the 1980's in the puffed sleeves and casual twist on tradition show an echo of the fun decades sense of soft rebellion that continued after the punk era. A Red sheath dress above partly fringed in semi-precious stones and tied with a soft belt shows a bright tone of colour for the warmer summer months. This outfit could be worn to a party or for work in more casual and less traditional environments such as contemporary art galleries. A classic sophisticated composition of wide leg Navy Blue trousers and White blouse finished with Navy sweater tied at the shoulder. In an individual twist to the look is the carefree volume of the blouse and also at the trouser hem you can detect a split length in the hem with a drop to the back. The uniform Blank canvas of the Navy Blue long sleeved mid-calf dress is adapted into something unique with the cut-away flourishes of ribboned fabrics and a Grey bikini top. A White ribbon tie melds the bodice and dress to create a unique for private dinners or parties or a Red carpet flourish. It's a fantastic piece to wear alone or with a jacket on cooler evenings.

Dappled floral effects are a key way to add femininity to an outfit and with the added composition of layering the first look above to the left of trousers, shirt and jacket is topped off with a sheer gauze dress that adds a subtle layer of challenge to the conventional gender neutral lounge suit look. Tailored separates are an easy addition to the wardrobe and the sheer dress also has possibilities as a complementary outer layer for a base piece. Wide legged trousers with deep hems slashed to the side compliment a raincoat dress with outer sheer plastic lining. Double breasted detail shows a nod to the formal lines of the dress coat while degrede colour ranging from Turquoise through to Navy. A revealed shoulder hints at the cold shoulder trend of recent seasons but the joint is sheathed in clear fabric to protect the figure underneath.

The ruffles of Blue fall like ripples of water across the figure in the look centre above as the model walks in a Blue tunic dress completed by a White under-slip tied with ribbon. It's a beautiful evening wear look that could be worn for parties, dinners or in front of the camera in the Summer. A White dress with a cut-away left shoulder detail and subtle patterning across the surface of the fabric makes a play on the traditional formal shaped belted Summer dress. The mid-calf length adds to the classic feel of the design and this look is a perfect piece for formal wear events with a hat possibly and lifting the shoulder sash up to the shoulder if at  formal places such as racing enclosures. To the far right a Navy dress is flecked with the same pattern and the cutaway shoulder appears again with an under-slip showing in a hint at the corner. With an outer dress that hints at waterproof attire it's a nod to guarding against the fleeting showers of summer in the composition.