Autumn & Winter 2018-19 part 2
All images below shot by me (C)
Camilla Elphick
Shoes, glorious shoes are what many women and men dream of adding to their collections. You can find the dream pair to match you outfit or even style a look around a special pair that hit the spot in terms of colour and design and set the fashion pulse racing. It's all about following your heart, with your feet. Camilla Elphick is one of the exciting younger generation of shoe designers in London who have honed their craft and are fluent in the language of contemporary luxury. I was delighted to see her showing for the first time as part of London Fashion Week at a presentation party full of eyes eagerly devouring her Autumn looks.
Rich colours heralding autumn and the strong colours of nature and party dress staples such as Claret and Midnight Blue permeated through the collection. Luxuriant satin silk, so kind to the feet, found it's way into sliders and formal court shoes alike. Above to the left a room with a feel of a library/study in a family home was decorated with books perhaps hinting at the stories that these pairs of shoes may be able to tell after finding their new homes. Double bow detail on the fore of the front of the shoe prettily marked the angle of the foot placed in the shoes. It's a smart and sophisticated style that would work well for social occasions or in many working spaces too. There's an instinctive chic neatness in the looks that makes them instantly modern classics.
Crafting an ankle boot well is no easy task. The need to be a comfy fit on one of the crucial joint areas of the body and ankle shapes and sizes vary just as much as foot sizes do too. By adding a zip-fasten at the back of the feet Camilla gives the wearer extra ease of entry to the boot and leaves the fabric free to gently sit around the shape of the feet. In close-up below the slider shoes to the right also demonstrate how Camilla caters for the wider foot shape which is really important for many shoe wearers and not something that all luxury shoe makers are so forthcoming in showing.
Here are some more close-up shots to show how comfortable the shoes look to wear as well as being discreetly stylish. There is something irresistible about satin silk slipper shoes and above in the centre you can see a pair of elegant Black boots that look like they would fit like a glove. There is something easy and international about these styles and I have no doubt that they will find their way into closets around the world as news of Camilla's foot-ware brand travels.
For autumn inspiration is taken from the natural outdoors with prints echoing the patterns of clouds in the sky and the warmth of sheerling. You can hit the trail, or the high street with confidence in the boots placed jauntily on the book case above to the left. With a warm woolly lining and secure lace fastenings, they will keep your feet warm. Pom pom detail at the back of the foot rising above the ankle adds a sophisticated finish to an autumn look and to the far right a longer boot rising up the leg shows fine leather work detail across the toes shows creativity in craft. A pair of court shoes with wrap-over strap also offer another way to wear an outdoors inspired print for the day or evening.
Mules and brogues above offer two more slip-into options for your outfit. Looking at both they cleverly seem to be neither day or evening-wear (well perhaps the mules look more ready for the evening) and the neutral Black offers a wide variety of possible combinations, whereas the Emerald Green would perhaps attune more to an eye that liked to experiment with colours.
The faithful court show gets a romantic make-over from Camilla with a simple but very charming unique marker of her style in an inward peak forming a heart shape over the toes of the wearer. In a romantic Rose-Red the pair above to the right gently accent the rise of the foot along the body of the shoe. To the centre interwoven lattice work becomes more complex but the form of a romantic heart is still discernible in at least five places across the surface of the foot. Carry love and laughter wherever you go. To the right, it's neighbour plants the ladybird, for some a symble of luck, at the heels to follow you wherever you walk.
Below four pairs of shoes, three, low heels and one more stiletto style all feature the soft gentle heart shape at the toes. Soft velvety fabric sits moulded into soft designs that look like they will be comfortable to the wearer, important for long days at work or evenings socialising. They coordinate well with just about anything that you could conjure in front of the mirror to wear.
Rose Pink is a particularly central colour to the collection with the colour appearing in many places across the autumn-winter designs. A Black band across the foot to keep the shoe securely in place allows for more natural movement from the wearer. A touch of shimmer and sparkle in finely applied crystals across the surface of the shoes allows light to bounce gently off them and provide a 'twinkle toes' effect to the wearer.
Taking a new look at the boot, laces are replaced with broad Black ribbons that weave up across the eyes of the boots lined with faux fur. The feet are kept warm and snug as well as making a pretty style impact. To the right large round buttons placed along the central line of the boot are off-set by a texture contrast in the floaty feather tresses that trail to the sole of the shoe. It's a party pair of boots and unquestioningly needs to be shown off. They would even turn heads on the Red Carpet come the autumn and show that you can wear light colours all year round.
To the left and below you can see some of the exquisite court shoes sealed in style with a simple cross at the centre point over the toes and at the heel in a double style note. As with all of the collection Camilla's designs look neat as a pin.
Paul Costelloe
He's one of the most expereinced designers showing on the London Fashion Week schedule and Paul Costelloe, with team Costelloe behind him in the form of this wife and six grown up children and the studio and design teams, pulled out all the stops to create a beautiful collection of wearable luxury from the word go.
Softly woven Irish tweeds evoked the russet colours of autumn leaves in the Irish and countryside and fitted close to the figure. A jacket with soft pockets sitting on the hips at a jaunty and practical angle is a perfect luxe coordination piece and here it's placed with a pretty skirt with volume, soft ruffles and Golden ripples across silken soft fabric. To the right above a silk Black sleeveless blouse with peplum frills at the waist and rounded applique detail collar is another easy coordination piece to work with. It's perfectly in tune with the tweed skirt and creates a perfect day into evening look. A long Black wrap around coat to the far right with belt tie and broad lapels offers another option for the seasonal staples and will keep out the sharpest of winter chills. To the far right a belted tweed jacket defines the waist and would work very well with either a slim Black skirt or trousers from the collection.
A silk print blouse with rich autumn floral colours set on a backdrop of Chocolate with a hint of berry takes you to the richly coloured table of harvest time. With it's round neckline it evokes the romance and practicality of the 1960's as some of Paul's designs often reference bringing hints of the minimal and practical alongside carefully crafted beauty. Romance is never far from his thoughts and the large bow tied at the back of the waist in the Cream-White coat dress has hints of vintage in the shoulder pin tucks and and the ruffles at the elbow cuffs. The fabric is imprinted with a soft water colour design and contrasting Black over the knee suede boots keep the look sharp for the new season. Centre above two White dresses show how Paul works a vintage feel into his looks with pin-tucks in gathered hems and focus on embroidered work around the collar. There's romance in the subtle creation of volume that gently wraps around the figure. A woven tweed jacket is worn with a super-mini skirt underneath (I believe) and equally showcases tailoring as well as a well toned pins.
The soft tones of Irish tweed appear again in a beautiful pristine jacket borrowing from the military look in the side buttoned style. As ever practical details such as pockets are included with a stylish finish and the classic composition is sealed with a skirt of fringed Black ruffles coordinating with the must-have Black heeled boots. As with many of the models, gloves complete the look in a sensible and warm style note. A below waist length coat with pretty tartan pleat skirt make the perfect cosmopolitan work-wear look. The model carries a Costelloe bag, in an adaptation of the classic satchel but a handy size for work or college to get a laptop and note books into also. Centre above a long coat softens that male rain-coat style to create a garment with plenty of fabric to give warmth.
Colour is an important feature of Paul Costelloe's collections and this season one of the colour print schemes that he worked into the set was a Pink look that resembled woven stitches in Baby Rose Pink and Magenta against a Black background. With collar, gloves and boots all matching, this again looked like a stylish sophisticated look that could be worn for formal day time occasions, just as it's neighbour to the right featuring a another perfect jacket and mini skirt combination. To the far right a rich warm deep navy coat wrapped by a broadly belted waist tie keeps the wearer stylishly snug for the winter.
A classic evening dress in Midnight Blue cuts an elegant line flattering a tall slim figure. It's a perfect black or white tie reception look and the Black straps across the neckline create a gentle contrast of colour. The tartan weave appears again in both more suits and a long skirt with Olive coloured bodice. A dress with two daring splits at the front to show some well-toned legs also provides another perfect, if daring, option for formal evening receptions and dinners. With a necklace and gloves that can be pulled up to the elbow, it's ready for the ball.
To the right a mini dress using bold colour patterns sits lightly on the figure cloaked in a Navy-Purple coat with rich Red lining. It illustrates very well the attention and care that Paul and his team take over the manufacturing and selection of fabrics that they use. Romance and hints of the past appear in the ruffle detail across the shoulders of the wearer in two tiers. To the right party frills are in evidence in two beautiful undeniably feminine looks. Frills at the waist in a Midnight Blue dress ready for a date, dinner or dance and a Black tiers skirt cascading with beneath a Cream cable knit sweater offer easy glamour options with sweetheart appeal.
Floral prints from the garden in bright colours to break the autumn dusk wrap their way around an ankle length skirt. Matched with a Black sweater cut luxuriently across the figure, it's a glamorous and comfortable style statement for the day or the evening. You could be at work, a social or business lunch or an evening reception in this. To the right Fern coloured leaves decorate and Earth-Brown dress peeping out from a finely tailored woolen coat showing that you can go out wearing something very light in the winter as long as you have the right coat over it to keep you warm. Paul's collections have featured mens-wear pieces for several seasons and although not my personal focus I chose the Brown coat centre above to show just how well he styles clothes for gentlemen. His suits are also perfectly cut as you would expect for a man of his experience and stature in the industry.
For me Paul is one of the strongest designers on the show schedule and alongside superb day-wear, he also creates the most wonderful party dresses. He wants to make women look and feel sensational and he's been doing it for many years but is always interested in discovering new techniques and pushing the boundaries of production. To the right a constellation of jewelled colours in applique swirl around the bodice a gown while the lengths of the skirt descend to a dipped hem with multi-layred ruffles. This is a dress to be seen out on the town in but also would charm at private events. To the right layers of sheer silk tulle swirl around the figure in a style echoing a popular design from earlier seasons with the halter neckline falling from the shoulders and a wide band wrapping the waist. As with many of Paul's looks, it will suit clients across the age spectrum.
A beautiful ball gown with a hint of the rock and roll era about it that influences much of Pauls' work, appears in Black and Grey marbled colours. The well cut bodice and angulation across the hips also recalls echos of 18th and 19th century women's formal wear whilst remaining light and contemporary. It can be worn as is with gloves and boots but would also look wonderful with a wrap and light jacket on cooler nights. Taking a fresh look at the evening dress a bodice is moulded to the figure in what I believe is a pvc fabric descending to a voluminous ball gown skirt that you would dance the night away in. The fabric is an interesting textile combination of Green and Yellow geometric interlaced shapes and shown in other garments in the collection. Above two dresses also in a blend of swirls of a bespoke fabric print for the Costelloe team. Mixing baby doll, vintage and rock and roll once again, they breath romantic life into the party dress. To the right, a close cut ling line coat with belt high above the waist makes a subtle sophisticated autumn statement. It looks perfect for a professional environment or for fun.
The beautiful floral detail on the dress above to the left creates the feel of a living garden across moving fabric as the wearer walks. Cut finely across the bodice it reveals a slim form while the layers also add a way to keep the wearer for getting cold in the autumn days. A spectacular coat dress to the right uses a design theme shown in several pieces appearing likes the loose weave of a garment broken down and shown under a magnifying glass. Perhaps it's only me that sees this but I find it an interesting play on the idea of textiles weaves in itself. Buttoned at the side to create a wrap-style garments volume is further added in a broad lower hem reaching from above the knee to the mid calf. Another playful geometric fabric appears once more in the collection with two full length ball gowns offering inspiring alternatives for evening wear. The collection ended with an informal presentation and the chance to see the outfits close up, as ever a delight.
Paula Knorr
Paula Knorr is a German born designer who lives and works in London and has made the capital her base to grow her label and bring her fashion to the world. Her style caters to confident girls and women who want to make a statement but not one that overshadows who they are as a person.
Shimmer and sparkle are key features of the collection with the models looking ready for an evening out or even to take to the stage perhaps to perform as did the talented 'open mike' vocalist who accompanied the presentation for autumn. To the left above a Red dress shows the designers interest in colour, light and texture and how she expresses it through the collection. Ruched folds across the hips shorten the length of the garment at the front to mini length while a dip to the back of the figure adds a theatrical twist. To the right a pair of Red dresses express very different options for a cocktail or evening dress. Diagonal dual tone fabrics cut on the bias and hugging the figure offer a flattering choice and a soft ankle length dress with roll neck and long sleeves cloaking the arms and hand also give the feel of bohemian artistry.
Sequined shimmer in Scarlett again cloaks the figure on sophisticated elegance centre above and the open cut of the sleeves indicates the Knorr's interest in practical adjustments to classic styles. To the right above the bias cut line across the body is emphasised by the fine diagonal fringes across the fabric in Claret and Black. Tassels falling from the left shoulder down the back of the figure emphasise the faintly cabaret feel to the look, restyled for a sophisticated 21st century audience. To the far right a Black dress cuts close to the figure with flattering flourishes at the sleeve cuffs and cut high to the left leg thigh. The colour emphasises the height of the wearer and makes an elegant simple look for private events, or in front of the camera.
A shift dress that wrapped around the body in the lightest of fabrics and gently split on the side makes a perfect Red Carpet statement piece. It would look fantastic at an autumn reception and photographs well which is important when weighing up options for premiere's and gala nights. The delicate print detail that crosses the fabric hints at floral design. To the right two outfits that perhaps take some inspiration from the 1970's era I feel. A silver metallic ankle length dress cut to cover the left shoulder only and sweeping across to a wrap/train on one side in an elegant flourish. To the right a play-suit also cut on the single shoulder updates the wide legged trouser style with the carefree draped folds of the early 20th century and French Couturier Madame Gres. To the right a Black dress is cut short in the skirt with draped arms giving a pretty fluid contrast in style. A generous V neckline and adds to the sultry feel of the piece but also means you won't become too warm in crowded rooms during the arty season.
Above to the left another front view of the Red dress shown earlier on. Here you can see the detail of the frilled embellishment creation that Knorr achieves through tucks and gathering. It's a traditional technique used to create something new. Above in Black a shimmering piece brings the retro disco era to the present with a flared feminine flourish at the shoulders. Centre above a dress draped around the figure, light as a breath of fresh air, enchants and offers a perfect statement look even complete with matching stockings. To the right a Sky Blue vest top continues the theme of the long elegant drape and off set with Silver sparkle in the trousers it's a look that you can blend for casual and more formal wear events. Drinks parties or in front of the camera, this look is relaxed party elegance at it's best. To the right a sheer vest top combines with trousers in clever styling to create one complete play suit look. I love the way that the lines on the bias run down to the tassels flowing from the waist to the lengths of the trousers. The static becomes active and fluid.
A jump suit with flares converted to the outer side of the garment flatters the length of leg and gives longer line to the silhouette. It shimmers in a White-Silver and hints of a feel of power and electricity of the wearer even come to mind. It's a piece to make an entrance in and has hints of disco and dance wear too. Movement and pose equally suited. To the centre above shimmer is again contrasted with a solid colour with sparkles across the blouse matched to wide leg trousers.
The close cut stretch stain appearance of a long gown is given an arty twist with sleeves that again stretch down beyond the lengths of the hands. Moulded to the figure, the dress flatters naturally and a simple look is off-set by the bias cut descending to the right ankle. The chords sweep across the gown to the right in Green and then Blue in the lengths of the skirt. Side tassels draped from the right shoulder to the heel add an elegant line of flow to the outfit.
The softly draped dress returns in Light Green to the left offering another styling option that would suit many skin types. It's a light fresh piece that would be tempting to keep in the wardrobe for the spring season. Evening wear is a strong suit of this collection and Knorr's lady is prepared to party with confidence with her offering this season. To the right a Baby Blue dress cut in one of her seasonal mini dress styles radiates calm confidence and a seriously versatile look to have in the wardrobe for the autumn and beyond.
To the right ending on a high note, a last piece encapsulations sparkle and shimmer and movie-star style glamour for the Red Carpet or dinner for two somewhere in the world tonight. Paula Knorr know how to get a girl prepared to shine and her healthy natural skincare goody bags also nodded to a deeper holistic base for this to begin with.
Emilio de la Morena
This is designer who specialises in and relishes the creation of luxury style for women. His day-wear is barely that and has the fine polish that we most normally associate with the finest of evening wear and Haute Couture. As a Spaniard de la Morena has made London his home and base of his business and from here he's grown an international client base of very happy women. Above to the left a relaxed White shirt and skirt is swathed in a Black tweed coat that's conveys charm as well as elegance. The easy light chic suit provided a good basis to explore for de la Morena with a White skirt suit above showing how a traditional classic can be made new. Centre above in Black another look shows beautiful jacquard detail with a broad tweed band matching the mini skirt, pocketed for style and practicality.
A Green vest composed of bodice and sheer lace embroidered neckline and full sleeves is matched with boot-cut trousers flared with hint of Spanish flamenco at the ankles. It's an easy wearable piece for day or evening like most of the collection. To the right a Cream -White woven jacket and tulip hemmed tweed Black mini skirt make a beautiful work or leisure time look. This suit just like the others could find it's way into the wardrobe for professional life. To the right a beautiful Black women's tuxedo jacket in jacquard fabric sits perfectly fitted above a Green skirt. It's chic and sassy but not too much for formal receptions and meetings.
The undulating waves of a White skirt have an almost maritime waves as they rise and fall around the body. The jacket softly belted on the waste with broad buckle creates another chic cosmopolitan uniform look that could easily be worn by women across the generations. To the right play with rich silk in Midnight Blue fabric, deeply embellished with embroidery to give a textured effect almost gives the effect of rushes running in the streams of the river. Demonstrating the ease of laying with successful themes within a collection, a single breasted white tweed jacket matched with Black trousers for a clean lined look to go anywhere.
To the right a Midnight Blue sleeveless shirt dress with raised collar. Stringed chains of sequins form jewellery composed within the dress add an extra touch and visual sensation for the wearer and the dress sits loosely on the figure while retaining classic lines. A Black waistcoat with Magenta tightly ruffled trim adds Spanish flamenco flare to trousers suit. Underneath a lace sheer blouse can be detected but this should not distract from the note of ancient fashion history that the designer weaves into the collection here. Flamenco and the clothes worn by the women who danced it where reckoned ancient even in the time of the Roman empire and dancers of Iberia where praised for their talents. To the right a Golden mini dress cut in a heart shape at the bodice and descending to a pleated mini dress with pretty gathered ruffles at the mid-thigh hem.
The colour palette is based in strong jewel-like colours with Black and White intersecting to provide a tonal base. It gives the composition of the outfits a clarity to the eye that supports a sophisticated composition. To the left an Aqua Blue at the collar ruffs and skirt is toned down with a Black bodice and long sheer sleeves creating a look that makes impact but isn't 'too much'. With sunglasses effecting an air of mystery, the outfit could be worn without for the evening and would be a statement Red Carpet piece. A Teal to Petrol Blue dress again reworks hints of the traditional flamenco into rippled waves at the hem that criss-cross down across the legs featuring stockings designed within the gown. Centre above a perfect pretty party dress with tiny pleats creating three tiers of ruffles and a dropped Spanish-style bodice starting the line of cascade. Beads hang lose at the side of the garment in a manner to enhance the line of the figure.
To the right, the simple structure of a Black evening dress is given a lift with Magenta plumes at the shoulders providing an eye-catching colour dynamic and creating a third tonal texture after the sheer Black lace and solid Black of the dress body. Hints of the 1980's cocktail dress revisited appear and it's a smart piece to party in Pink makes a strong statement next with the tiniest hints of Light Blue in the hem of the gathers at the dropped waist skirt. To the far right a fantastically chic evening dress is the final word in autumn evening glamour and a perfect Black dress for evening Gala's, balls and special dates.
Moving to a full look in Magenta with alternate flat and pleated tiers of fabric the volume is tapered so as not to become too excessive as the dress descends the figure. The single strap across the shoulders adds a twist of de la Morena individuality and the garment again is another easy option for women from the collection. A long line shift dress with boat neckline all in Black with sheer sleeves extended from the shift layer is a perfectly composed form wear statement with a hint of the designers playfulness captured within. Marine hints return on two Cobalt and Petrol Blue looks above with the curving lines of waves and soft floating shapes of the sea referenced in both the garments. A train and bold face cover in the style of alternate veil hints at the possibility of an avant garde bridal creation. Centre above and to the right, three outfits use the sheer blouse in Black, Green and Magenta as a confident style tool. Plumed at the shoulders, it has a clean tailored cut and beneath are matched the an A line skirt, taking hints from ball gown form, trousers and a broader sheer skirt. All have the fingerprint of classic Spanish design about them and to the London catwalk crown this was an absolute delight and a pleasure to see and photograph. Plenty to add to the wish-list.
Faustine Steinmetz
Faustine studied her craft in Paris before moving to London to complete her Master's degree under Professor Louise Wilson. Her enthusiasm for weaving was one of the early hall marks of her work and is still visible in the pieces that she produces today in parts of her collections.
An early passage of the collection featured a Pistachio Green silk in both the form of blouses and dresses that offered a natural fit with denim as well as the russet Browns of autumn. Above to the left a silk blouse, slightly open at the collar sits with jeans cut just below the knee and below the boots are also cut from re-worked denim. It's an easy style look that is effortlessly international and urbane. Similarly to the right a blouse with antique style ruffles and gathers across the front of the garment heralds a more defined statement. Again jeans cut to just below the knee add a casual air and boots appear in a pushed down, slouched form that feels super-comfy around the legs of the wearer. A shirt dress centre above takes the look to it's essential elements with a dress fitted to the figure accessorised by a soft clutch purse in a burnished Bronze. To the right two looks bring together options that illustrate Steinmetz' interest in exploring texture with rich ruching and embellishment across the blouse and the dress. The texture is soft and delicate, whilst still visually intriguing to the eye and naturally sophisticated.
Preparing the woman for autumn, she brought out a series of light and warmer coats that mixed the conventional with the innovative. To the left you can see the classic raincoat that she re-worked loosely belted at the waist with cuffs casually upturned in the same fabric as her seasonal blouses and dresses. Twinned to the silk shirt dress underneath, it's a perfect work or casual look. Steinmetz's love of weaving comes to the fore in the next light coat showing her interest in creating fabrics that have a tactile quality. Centre above a bespoke weave in her own monica forms a warm autumn wrap to keep out the cold. It sits lightly on the figure and the dressing gown style is easily adaptable. A blouse using the same Brown and Cream colour themes twins with a woven woolen skirt in the same fabric and cut just below the knee, it's a new look at a classic day wear ensemble. To the right a V neckline sleeveless sweater sits with a thick cable knot White skirt for a look that will keep the wearer warm without being completely wrapped up.
Print is another area offering exploration on the collection with equine inspired bold patterns placed on a silk scarf-style blouse and also upon sequined counterparts. Cut on the bias in a casual style, they are easy to blend into an autumn outfit collections. To the left a quick look at part of the finale passage showing the autumnal Brown phase of the collection and Steinmetz's ability to make a possibly dull colour alive with possibilities.
Teatum Jones
They are one of the most exciting design duos around in London and make a point of using fashion and design to convey messages with their collections as well as bringing out highly desirable pieces for women to wear and collect. This season the message was positive again for autumn with bold colours signalling confidence.
Opening with a bold Magenta colour note, the collection celebrates Global Womanhood and Teatum Jones chose 25 women from different social backgrounds, ages and ethnicities to speak about their most instinctive emotions. In a world hurtling towards AI and less human contact and natural interraction, it's a welcome moment of acknowledgement of what that makes women the special, complex and uniqiue beings that they are. The loose flowing gown sits across the shoulders and ripples down across the figure in the easiest statement of elegance. The Pink shades are chosen to represent passion and blend with each skin tone. To the right bright Red appears in a series of looks beginning with a dress with generously puffed sleeves, a blouse cut bodice and beautiful pleated lengths. It's a perfect pieces for parties and dinners out this autumn and a good Red Carpet option for the cameras.
All Teatum Jones pieces are crafted with comfort of the wearer in mind as well as the expression of their creative seasonal journey and centre above the carefully cut top and pleated skirt combination offer a look that could be worn from day into the evening for work and play. You may want to add an underlayer to the sheer skirt for the office but it's a great piece to enjoy. Prepping for the cold, a soft Pink and Red sweater sits losley on the model above a sheer skirt in Red and Pink with a ruched border ruffle placed around the mid-thigh. The two colour harmony plays well with the tonal contrast of opaque knit and sheer light skirt. To the right the trouser suit is brought into focus with comfort and colour both top of the agenda. A Red jacket tied in wrap style at the waist hits the nail on the head for a casual sophisticated look. Wide leg trousers sit loosley around the figure in an easy comfortable style that would work for many busines environments and for leisure time.
Pockets hung at an angle at the upper thigh are cut invisibly into the dress above to the left completed by external backwards look belt and flowing sleeves that extend behind the wearer almost to make a cape. To the right, the sweater and sheer pleated skirt combination appear again with bold Pink and Red representing passion and strength in the thick knit off the shoulder style. Cut above the wrists for a cool style twist, the look is urban casual and could be at home anywhere in the world. Hand painted florals where a large feature of the collection with vibrant slightly melancholic blooms painted across the surface of a tightly pleated ankle-length skirt. A soft Light Blue blouse with hints of funnel neck pleats that descended from collar to waistband complete the sophisticated, versatile look.
A trouser suit cut in lose form around the figure echos a style seen above and would similarly suit for both working life or being out and about socially. One of the Teatum Jones many champions in the industry, fashion journalist Caryn Franklin walked the catwalk in one of the most beautiful looks, a flower print dress cut perfectly to give a broad skirted flowing look. The halter neckline tied with a ribbon through a loop in an echo almost of the ribbon on a medal. This collection was crafted to celebrate all women and offer them something that would be useful in their lives as well as beautiful. To the right a long single breasted style coat with deep pockets and collar turned up against the chill sits over a long pleated skirt, showing that you can enjoy delicate fabrics through winter under a star winter coat.
A long gown simply appears to wrap around the figure in an elegant drape with folds falling from the neckline and a clever tiered ruching at the sleeves that also emphasises volume. Moving like liquid as the wearer walks, it's a dress with a hint of bohemian that isn't too experimental for most clients. To the right the mood of Midnight Blue enters the collection with a sheer dress cut seen above in the first row of looks, transposed with it's hand painted flowers across the silky fabric. It's a confident and elegant piece, note the heritage inspired ballooning of the sleeves in an elegant nod to former centuries.
Centre above a sweater created in two fabrics blending Navy with Cream and an optional lower sleeve feature showing the hands able to reach through an opening at the the wrists or to be tucked inside a longer sleeve option. A skirt with a strong feature around ruching detail at the waist descends to a sheer skirt with hints of rosette gathers adding definition of texture to the simple garment. A close cut top with cut-away shoulders offers a cooling option for the autumn months whilst a skirt, belted at the waist with broad embroidered banding and ribbon-tie is another easy day to evening piece. Ribbons threaded through small hops, in an echo if the eyelet of shoes and boots, seem to be a continuing design hint in the collection and above to the right, a dress features these details through the length of the sleeves with ribbons trailing providing an offset to the single fabric in the length of the dress.
Sitting like a single drape across the body, the dress to the left is a romantic and elegant look with hand painted flowers set on a Midnight Blue background. Red set against the Blue blends romance and the mystery of the night sky. The easiest of looks to wear for an autumn season drinks party, it's the shirt dress re-imagined by Teatum Jones to perfection. To the right florals are printed onto White-Ivory silk that in this collection symbolises hope and a new start for the future. With a sash belt looped around the waist, volume is created in the skirt with skilled cutting and sleeves are open, hanging loosely in voluptuously open cuffs. To the right print plays across the surface of fabric in another dress that's an easy piece to have on stand-by for the autumn with pleats in the length of the skirt giving an is it/isn't it question about whether it's a shirt dress. A large V neckline shirt to the right is cut lose enough to also be a dress. Matched with culotte trousers it's casually elegant in it's styling. To the right honeyed tones come through in the suit continuing the style of the wide legged easy trousers offering a professional look with a style imprint. The shirt dress appears in a more classic form to the far right strewn with florals and deep pockets for a beautiful and practical touch. It's worn with White trousers here but could easily be worn alone for a complete stylish look with sheer tights in the autumn.
A White sweater with partly open sleeves sits casually on the model offering a loose comfortable style for autumn. Beneath a skirt with floral patterns and gathered pleats upturned towards the waist offers a playful styling option that would also suit well for parties and less formal workplaces. A diaphanous White suit with thick waist band tie and deep pockets again also features broad statement cuffs hanging from the jacket sleeves. It's flowing with elegance and you can't say that about many suits for autumn. Centre above a sheer White blouse is embroidered with soft hints of antique style and billowing culotte trousers almost fool the eye into thinking that you're seeing a skirt.
To the right a fantastically woven cardigan is knitted in the form of double breasted jacket to transform the cosy comfy wardrobe staple into a piece of formal wear in a genius move. Deep pockets to beat the cold add the final touch of elegance to the look. To the right a model with a missing lower arm highlights why frankly there is no reason why women and men of all physicality's should not take to the catwalk and represent the country as it truly is. Playful embroidery shapes appear through the length of this beautiful White sleeveless dress offering an eye catching Red Carpet option and memorable party piece. To the right a dress in similar design is cut in one of the signature styles of the collection offering an intriguing possibility for bridal wear and again an A-listers choice this autumn.