Spring & Summer 2018 part 2

This set the tone for the collection looking elegant and prepared. A Sunflower skirt and Sky Blue gillet jacket capture the mood of being ready for work and/or play in the town and country. Centre above sheath-like skirts skim over the figure in Umber and Ochre paired a sheer blouse and lightweight bomber jacket or a slip top they look at though they would be too light to guard against the elements in spring time but this is not the case at all. The cute exterior belies some serious attention to fabric technology and these looks will insulate. To the right, Pink on Pink is softly sweet but no less practical. This gentle lightweight piece again blends urban with all-weather country creating a sleek sexy hybrid.

Speedy stripes become a style motif and code for strength emblazoned on shirts in successive and outward facing angles. The silhouette is straightforward cut in tunic style against the figure with soft space created for a wearer in the cut of fabric to move around her figure with ease. Skirt fabric has almost a wet-look. Wrapped around the legs above the knees and cut neatly at the waist, these skirts are pristine design statements that create a new expression for the future. A retro shaped handbag swings by a models side evoking the early 20th century showing how the future can meld with the past seamlessly. With a vibrancy of colour, some single colour garments have tremendous power in their appearance and the all-weather slip dress on Lapis Blue teamed with an equally adorable raincoat is a highly practical colour statement to make on days when there may be sunshine and showers within minutes. These are looks styled by an eye that understands the need for style and glamour and wants to create looks that will tune into the mood of relaxed days in the countryside too. A beautiful Saffron day to evening sleeveless dress evokes easy glamour for the town or the country and has an easy international style to it. The sporting V inverted at the waist quietly signals strength and the look could be worn alone or with a light jacket. A cosy classic sweater dress in soft Mustard and Moss hues is a perfect easywear garment. 

An Mandarin dress with simple band at the waist and short sleeves and collar is a perfect easy to wear sunshine staple like it's neighbours the right and centre above. This is clothing for women who are busy but not too busy to make sure that they take care of themselves too with hints of health suggested gently in the active sports orientation of the collection. Soft and gentle of the figure, these are pieces sympathetic to natural curves and movement with both the halterneck dress in umber tones and a Fern Green dress softly gathered at the waist both easy day into evening pieces. They are also what I would term multi-generational as is much of the collection, showing the skilled experience of Jasper, one of the handful of designers who has been showing at London Fashion Week since it's inception. A sheer blouse and close cut skirt tied at the waist match chic with relaxed casual and to the right above bold Lapis Blue and Green stretch bands of a jacket give a street wear edge to a softly tailored expression of style.

A suit of ink makes a bright statement for spring with a sheer light blouse matched to a sports fabric pencil skirt and a lightweight blazer in a slight colour-contrasted Pink evoking the rich fabrics of India translated to the international wardrobe. To the right another example of a look with double jacket layering. A Salmon Pink slip dress is twinned with a light sports edged waist length jacket and swathed in a mid-length sheer Fern Green raincoat. Whether walking in town or in the country this is a look that speaks of fun and confidence. Centre above an antique Rose skirt and teal all-weather blouse sit underneath a Yellow jacket with collar upturned against the seasonal winds. In a single colour note of Green a modern goddess for the town and country strides forth happy to meet either sunshine or storms. Again with a nod to the classical mid twentieth century chic of women such as Audrey Hepburn and many of the women from our own families the model to the right wears a soft Mandarin sweater with classic Sunshine Yellow framed handbag and a soft apron tie skirt. 

Backstage at Paul Costelloe is the perfect place to see how a well-oiled machine works in London Fashion Week. With the full compliment of Costelloe's on board including Paul, his wife Anne and their seven adult children all helping to orchestrate a crowd of hair, beauty and clothing stylists it's a calm yet busy atmosphere. I love to see the styling of looks coming together and to see each season how the hair and makeup is being directed to suit the mood. As with the model above filming her make-up session, you can see a lot of hints and tips quickly that you can use in your day to day make-up as well as getting a look at the key Fashion Week trends.

Sweet romantic colours were going to be the order of the day brought to us in the most beautifully woven fabrics. Paul and his team work with an Italian mill company that weaves some astonishing creations for his collections each season and Paul is still very interested in pushing the boundaries and possibilites in the fabrics that he creates. Above to the left an out-sized bib-collar gives extra character and expression to a tweed style woven knee length coat. Both passionate and playful it shows Paul's knack for subtle experimentation with design. Centre above a sweetheart dress that Paul is so good at creating features back-button detail reversing design norms. It's a look back to design experimentation of the 1960's and an era when Paul began to learn his craft. To the right a simple neck tie borrows from the style of Edwardian era women's day dresses and loosly fitted in it's lengths it's a perfect piece to wear for warm days or evenings or media commitments. The wide collars add a reference to traditional formalwear. To the right a beautiful Rose Pink coat that cloaks the model is cut generously to wrap around the figure, shown here as she removes her shoes. It's a hallmark of Paul's tailoring that he still frankly cuts and styles like a "proper" tailor and you have no sense of skimping on fabrics to consider costs and production as is more commonplace in the industry culture today.

The colour scheme is light and 'babydoll' pretty for most the collection until the stronger statements at the collections close. Like the colours of yarns associatated with baby knitting these also evoke some of the whimsical romance of the innocent quarters of the 1960's. Beyond the colour that instantly greets the eye, the observer soon sees that the design and construction of the garments speaks to many years of experience and the quality of workmanship in the samples that are worn for the catwalk show is as sophisticated as you will find anywhere. Above to the left ribbed pannelling in a Baby Pink dress bodice is neatly styled into the garment and shows thoughtful consideration for allowing the figure freedom of movement. A circular skirt adds modest volume and leaves room for a romantic twirl. This is an easy option for people looking for a formal wear dress for events in the summer and would combine easily with a jacket. To the right and slightly more casual a longer dropped waisted Baby Blue dress with pin-tuck detail defining the drop of the bodice into the skirt is a relaxed number.

A beautiful brocade jacket in a shade that looked like Chinese Imperial Yellow again shows the stamp of quality of Paul's production. Tailored gently to the figure, it's broad lapels and deep pockets make this an addition to the wardrobe that a client would cherish. To the right one of the showpiece gowns of the collection waits for it's wearer Vogue Williams and this illustrates the enduring influence that high eighteenth century women's French fashion appears to have on Paul. He studied in the capital as a young man and the flowing lengths and addition of the train-like back drop of the garments are a clear nod to that era along with flowing sleeves. A short-sleeved coat dress to the right, waiting for it's turn on the catwalk again illustrates the captivating combination of tailoring and finely crafted fabric that make Paul's collections intriguing to look at.   

The collection opens with a series of looks in the above Yellow, Pink, Orange and Red woven fabric. A crescent moon shaped double banded neckline of a 1960's inspired baby-doll swing dress has deep concealed pockets within the swathes of it's fabrics that illustrates how Paul always retains his eye for practical detail. A cowelled neckline dress in the sleeveless style favoured for much of the collection continues to set the tone for bringing out the one-step option outfit. Next a blood Orange tunic vest and above knee skirt are accessorised with a necklace and satchel shaped tote. This makes a perfect work or leisure outfit and has maximum appeal to women looking for easy contemporary high tailoring.

Lemon Yellows bring a cool twist of colour into summer with a sporty top and mid calf shorts tucked away underneath a beautiful floral summer jacket. The colour themes don't get out of hand with soft Lemon, Green and White. Vintage appeal textile prints don't feel jaded with a neat pretty party dress in a gentle fit and flare style set off with peplum fringing. To the right a beautiful Lemon dress combines the contrast of a fitted panel bodice with a knee length flared skater skirt. 

A mini-dress with puffed short sleeves and ribbon collar is another easy-wear elegance piece. This is another piece you could wear for working days and meetings and also for social drinks and parties. Paul is conscious of how his clients enjoy his clothes and where they are worn and gives a lot of thought to their design. The vintage florals return in the look with a 1960's pop-art inspired collar descending into the body of the dress creating a smart contrast with the soft flower print. The above seen bow tied dress in Lemon and the beautiful Rose Pink coat with it's circular collar both looked beautiful in their movement. A uniquely configured halter neck with bow tie forms a pretty drop waisted dress with box pleated skirt. Using a single fabric of embroidered satin silk it's perfect cocktail dress that would match well with a simple jacket or look good by itself. To the right another light Rose Pink coat with open neckline ahead of the collar is folded across the figure in a simple contemporary style. Shorts underneath hint at a sport to working casual theme and a tote seals the look of a busy lady about town.

Sugar sweet pastel looks appear in the next series of pieces with a Pink tweed dress coat completed with long tulip sleeves pin-tucked just below the elbow to create an extended cuff. Buttons down the length of the coat front show the easy to wear nature of the pieces and although teamed here perfectly with a pair of sports trousers creating a style contrast could also be replaced with other more casual or formal options or simply hose or stockings. One of the show piece dresses worn by Vogue Williams next above uses hints of 18th century formal wear as outlined above to create a gown that literally is a broad sweeping gesture of style. The Pink and Blue dresses seen earlier backstage came to live on the catwalk easily able to give full voice to their sensitive design style and delicate detail. It was easy to see that the fit of the bodice was not too close and that the skirts were well tailored for movement and gave the full glamour effect. To the right the delicate sketch lines crossing the Blue-Green fabric seen above fill out across the surface of a fit and flare dress that also channels the dimensions of women's gowns of previous centuries with a hint of rock and roll chic.  

Pink and Green enter the collection with Fern, Teal and Pistachio creating a rich sequence of colour expressions along side a soft Baby Pink. This combination feels like a natural harmony of opposites and the beautiful jacket showcased above is carefully crafted to bring the swirls of Jacquard style print to the surface of the fabric in slightly raised three dimensional effect. It's always interesting to see when a designer pursues technological innovations to help their idea become real. A Sugar Pink jump suit and vest to the left above is one of the most classic and pared down looks of the whole collection and will suit many figures across the generations and could be worn for work or leisure with ease. Green is the next colour mood to be explored and what you will have noticed is that the models rest on chairs and couches all covered in Markus' signature prints of the season. Again hailing earlier decades when fabrics were a little more multi-purpose and simply enjoyed, these armchairs where drawing admiring glances themselves at the presentation and Markus brought a real sense of lifestyle into his set to show the collection. Poised or relaxed, each girl looked naturally confident.

The collection heads towards darker shades as it reaches it's final act. A light romantic dress in sheer black gauze at the bodice with an embroidered print of a flower across the chest that is echoed in the fabric creates a natural design harmony that shows that this piece is suitable for casual and smarter drinks receptions and parties and would love lovely with a wrap or a jacket. The below knee pleated skirt is cut to be precisely loose enough to allow a natural swing in movement and tied at the waist with a raffia weave belt. The jewellery in this collection is notable for being large enough to be statement pieces where it appears but also styled just correctly to compliment the looks they are worn with like a true extension of the outfit. To the right, a another variation of this look with an opaque print top is yet another easy item to add to the wardrobe and again could be easily teamed with a jacket or loose shrug. Taking another look at trousers, combining the gentle woven crochet that Markus likes there is a pleasing combination with a blouse combining the best of a fluted sleeve element in sheer gauzey silk and a light fitted bodice in the same endearing fabric as the previous look above to the left. This was a sweet and confident collection as always from Markus and in the extra wide angles and portraits you can see below there is so much beautiful simplicity in his work. 

Edeline Lee is one of the most interesting in the younger generation of designers that show on the London schedule and her collections offer a masterclass in how to develop a woman's wardrobe of classic pieces composed of fresh takes on recognisable designs and also new ones. In an open set within the BFC show space she showed her new collection in the round with a live folk-rock accoustic set playing. 

Above to the left the opening look of the collection a White fitted blouse with buttoned collar is trimmed with folk-style embroidery patterns above tiny gathers to the fabric. While this look show the blouse ticked into the skirt the volume created by the pin-tucks descending through the garment allows for it to be easily worn loose over trousers or jeans. A dusty pink knee length skirt that begins in A-line shape and then descends to a wave-cut peplum skirt. With simple contrasts of colour, cut and style harmony they form an easy-wear day outfit with some comfy wrap around court shoes. A White long sleeve belted shirt dress looks casually on-trend and makes an easy-wear addition to the wardrobe. It can be worn alone with or without a clutch purse or matched with a jacket. Edeline enjoys playing with gentle contrasts in volume through the collection and a belted dress above centre with delicate balloon sleeves is an easy to wear look for day or evening. Edeline favours the use of a dominant colour in many of the garments with a hint of a future colour to appear in the collection within the composition. To the right above a long line dress tied at the waist with the simplest knot belt is a perfect one piece ensemble that could also have a wrap added to it. To the right trousers and a hooded jacket are matched with a coat in the same collection themes of dusty Pink peppered with Turquoise.

Here above to the left is the the same dress from the side showing how the fabric gently falls across the figure. To the right a second phase of the collection sees series of soft caramel looks crafted with the same gentle hand in glove feel. Softly belted at the waist to give definition, it is tied with bow-knots at the shoulder to offer a pretty style addition and forms a flattering discreet silhouette. This piece, like many of Edeline's others could easy work magic at a Black-Tie drinks reception, Red Carpet moment or at summer dinner and drinks parties with friends. Like it's contemporaries to the side, it would easily harmonise with a variety of purses. Centre above sashed bows falling off the shoulders give an extra romantic hint to the neckline while breadth is given to the skirt with a side pleat at each leg creating enough fabric and space for a glamorous glide and movement. A dress with a wrap-sash belt composed as part of the design and tied loosely at the waist to the right of the figure is another easy sophisticated style moment showing that Edeline has the series of smart/casual dresses for the millennial woman all under control. Cleverly, it doesn't obviously speak to one generation more that another and could suit a variety of tastes. Seated to the right you can see the skirt suit tailored with out-sized lapels and hanging slightly open in a casual boyish style while still emphasising comfort in the high quality of Edeline's cut and fabric.   

Rosette style ruffles at the shoulders and above the elbows of short Grey sleeves make a pretty addition of detail to a look that's creative and romantic but not veering towards silly. It's creative design for the wardrobe for a woman who is thinking more broadly about her approach to dressing. A skirt with neat beautiful simplicity featuring a crescent waved hem with spaced peplum folds breaks the line of the traditional A-line skirt. It's a fun and pretty look that has a versatile international feel that doesn't reflect as pretentious in any way, much as the rest of the collection. To the right a soft top with fringe gathers at the waist sits above a buttoned skirt creating an easy Summer outfit. In a design innovation loose leg trousers are gathered at the ankles and a coordinating hooded top offers culturally suitable alternatives plus a handy guard against cooler days for many. A high necked dress offers a little protection from Spring breezes and lose fabric of the dresses upper part softly falls partly over the discreet belt that blends with the body of the dress. Tassels from the edges of the sleeves at the elbow gently fall to the length of the arm and the skirt is cut to slightly asymmetric lines which cleverly serves to elongate the form of the figure.

Moving to the next colour phase of Black accented by Blues and Sand-Brown forms the colour components of a beautiful cocktail dress with waves of fabric gently swirling around the bodice. Steadying straps at the shoulder also give the garment extra definition of line and skirted frills at the waist add a hint of the eighteenth century Mantua dress brought forward to today. To the right, the long sleeved shirt dress with belted waist and high collar is a new classical look at composition of womens-wear clothing. Effortlessly international, it could blend into a wardrobe anywhere on the globe and is again flexible across the ages. To the right a chic pretty cocktail dress with unwrapped rosettes resembling birds adorn the bodice of the dress with a straight lined skirt descending to a fluted pin tucked frill skirt. To the right a white adaptation of the Black dress at the start of this range shows a beautiful sashed neckline descending to sleeves themselves created with sash ties and finishing with rosette bows at the wrists. It's a perfect blend of minimalist style with a flourish of unique design. To the far right the soft rock ballads played on. 

The knot tie that appeared in several looks becomes a feature of the outfit itself in the look to the left with a draped light dress composed of two descending pieces of fabric that form knotted plume details. To the right a slim line dress features a different form of raised flower detail across it's surface adding a sweet feminine charm to a garment that plays with volume by adding flourishes of fabric at the sides. A skirt and dress combination feature more of the same detail with a sheer blouse softly pleated skirt forming another option for drinks evenings and parties in the summer months. To the right above, a slightly more formal piece sees ruched fabric once again forming flowers across the surface of the dress in a triple colour combination creating a fresh clean take on the design of a formal wear piece. Edeline once again showed us that her mastery of tailoring is still combined with a hunger to explore and invigorate in design to it's large and appreciative audience.

Huishan Zhang

Inside the mirrored halls of the Connaught Hotel a catwalk style presentation showed the bright vitality that Huishan wanted to bring his audience for Spring and Summer 2018. As soft Egg Yolk Yellow finds it's place on the sequined cape of a blouse, set like the scales of a fish and also in the ribbonned length of pleats of the skirt. It's a light and chic play on formal-wear showing how style can be blended to meet the design inclinations of clients. To the right a glamorous floor length gown with bold markings segmenting the lengths of the dress draws subtle attention to the warm core of the figure at the bodice. You can even make out the subtle shape of a heart. Flowing and elegant, this piece will make a stunning look for parties on summer evenings and could also easily be worn beside the beach or pool. It's cut is universally flattering to the figures that may chose to wear it.

To the right a dress seemingly takes it's cues from the 1920's dropped waist design however the hem is created with a fascinating implementation of eye loops in the skirt allowing for a slightly more flexible sense of movement. The hem of the skirt is cut skillfully to create extra volume in the garments length as it ripples around the leg of the wearer. With a dipped angle at the base hemline, it echos the trailing skirt lengths of evening gowns of the past. It's a modern cocktail dress though and would do well on the Red Carpet. I can imagine it being worn in country as the dappled floral hints of the raised quilting suggest in their light and Moss Green hues.  

Above to the left Huishan plays with metallic fabric as a mini dress is cut broadly in the length of the skirt and through the arms with the eye-let motif reaching down the lengths of the sleeve to the elbow and trimmed with light tiny light feathers. This is another piece that has quiet show-stopper glamour and could be easily worn on the Red Carpet or at private events. It's also a wonderful piece to shoot for editorial features. Centre above a Ruby Red diaphanous gown features more of the banded seeming that Huishan worked into earlier pieces. It's volume strikes a balance between elegance and carefree bohemian splendour and it's a look that's highly adaptable in terms of where it could be worn. This dress captures the romance that Huishan gently infuses into his collections.

To the centre above a White suit tailored with cut out floral style shapes at the sleeve and front of jacket signal a new take on the day suit blending sports elements. Another sports styled jacket curiously mimics the male neck tie at the front of the piece while softening the stripes of sports design into curves at the arms and feathered fringing at the shoulders takes the piece on a flight of fantasy. The sports jacket itself appears with a train of it's own and a sheer skirt partly reflecting the light highlights a healthy figure. To the right above a Black coat dress and works with cut-away crescent lines and a sequined out sized clutch purse in hand forms a complete day wear look.  

A light summer dress in white is a chic and adaptable piece easy to accessorise with a purse or possibly a jacket on cooler days. Cut with beautiful folds around the neck it creates the impression of a large collar. To the right a cropped Beige top with fluted gathered sleeve cuffs, it is matched to Beige shorts with delicate feather trim at the side. It has the appearance of angelic sports meets casual wear and shows Huishan's desire to be experimental in his creation of luxury style. Centre above circular patterned cut shapes placed on top of each-other in clash/contrast Pink and Red capture a current colour theme and partnered with a dipped hem Yolk Yellow skirt it creates a unconventional playful look.

A smock detail collar brings a touch of heritage chic to the sports styled dress to the right. In soft Pink it melds historical nuances with today's sportswear with it's draw strong waist showing a flash of imagination and experimentation that Huishan is well known for. To the right two dresses that appear a little more conventional and no nonsense styles for the wardrobe. A knee length tie-dye number with broad silk backed pleats provides an easy match for a Spring or Summer party that you may be heading to and to the far right a Navy Blue dress with open cut pleats streaming to ribbons in Navy and Sky Blue is a chic style statement that could be worn for work or leisure.

Pretty ruffled cascade down the back of a pretty blouse showing the heartfelt fascination that Huishan has with cut and tailoring. Contrasting pinks, this look is another exploration of colour harmonies that can blend well together. To the right a Mauve and Lilac also make a complimentary contrast in a sweater and lightly frilled pair of high cut shorts. It's another great look for summer parties and the wisps of feathers at the top of the outfit show a tiny texture contrast. Feathers return in a more emphatic statement in the next dress to the right with bands aligned to the colour segmentation of the garment. The combination of Black, Yellow and Pink creates a dynamism as well as enhancing the 3D nature and feel of the piece. It's another easy neat and chic cocktail wear piece.

To the right folds appear again with echos of a Grimaldi clown collar in the ruff of the Black blouse. Belted at the waist, it leads to a pair of metallic coloured shorts in a colour and textile combination that seems daring but not confusing. To the right a summer dress in the signature Yellow of the collection fuses giant sequins and a double band of tulle netting to create a look that feels like it grabs the impulse of fun in the moment. The shimmer and soft colours belay the complexity of the design as to the right a longer piece in Baby Pink with a similar design construction shows that beneath the large sequins there is a fascinating fabric with complex construction. A mini skirt fringe is supplemented by a longer floor trailing sheer skirt for an elegant touch.                  

A Black floor length dress with giant sequins sprinkled around the arch of the bodice and at the upper hem of the dress. It's a glamour piece for a Black or White tie event that would look fantastic on the Red Carpet. With a large number of clients in the public eye around the world, Huishan ably spans the gap between the needs of clients with myriad different lifestyles. A hint of cow girl style in the blouse and above knee skirt to the right shows again the ability to mix the informal and playful with some seriously able tailoring. The classic trench coat gets a new look from Huishan with a more generous cut in the fabric in the lines of a day dress and softly belted in clear perspex. The feathery purse in the models hand again demonstrates Huishan's enjoyment of playing with the conventional and free-form in styling his looks.

Ruffles appear once more in the fringing of a sportswear top at the shoulders and the sleeves contrasting with their day wear trouser counterparts a little but still forming a unified picture of a composite whole. A sleeveless long Pink dress taking the nuance of a men's double breasted jacket skillfully adapts the male/military style of men's wear, first used after the second world war by Christian Dior to create a clean long-lined elegant look that will suit many international clients. The closing piece in bold Magenta is an ode to beauty created in a hybrid of high fashion meets sports wear with the wipser-soft feathers of Huishan floating behind the model as she walks. Some of his pieces are like dreams, others are clear defined style but all show a designer who's mind is bursting with creativity and passion for high women's ready to wear fashion.