Autumn & Winter 2019-20 part 3
All images (C) ERDEM.
The glittering treasure of the Palazzo Doria Pamphilj and it's former owner Princess Orietta where the super glamourous inspiration for the Autumn-Winter 2019-20 collection from Erdem Moralioglu. The designer himself is something of an Anglo-Canadian treasure settled here in Britain and his recent collections shown in the National Portrait Gallery have been widely acclaimed around the world furher sealing his reputation as one of our greatest resident designers at London Fashion Week.
The wealth of the Doria-Pamphilj-Landi family was of almost mythical proportions even by Roman standards well into the twentieth century. This seasons muse for Erdem, Princess Orietta was the last of her line carrying around fifty romantic coundign titles that passed when she did. Although an Italian princess caring for one of the world's great private art collections she maintained close links with the UK all her life and with her British husband worked tirelessly to promote charitable causes and interfaith work of understanding. One of her palaces still contains a research institute of Anglicanism in Rome. The princess had a maternal grandmother who was a British aristocrat and perhaps from her grandmother's expereince of spanning two different worlds within a priviledged niche of society, she found the importance of promoting understanding as her life's work. Erdem chooses to focus on her flight to London from Mussolini and the contrast between the opulence and tradition of the life she knew and the swinging sixties.
Taking a step into Princess Oriette's wardrobe and her day to day world, Erdem opened the collection with a look at day suits and day wear for the Princess for the cooler months of autumn and winter. The opening look, a midi-length winter coat, typical of the cut of the era of the mid-20th century shows Black sequinned Roses embroidered onto a Fern Green tweed. It's styled with generous fabric around the figure to execute a look both chic and warm. A Black trouser suit is cut perfectly to the figure with floral emblems in raised embroidery across the surface of the jacket and trousers. In this piece you can see the influence of tapestries and textiles from another century on the applique. Centre above a light Green that could also be a faded Gold gives a skirt suit an antique colour feel whilst also cutting to the figure and proportions of a style reminiscent of the new sophistication of the 1960's. More Black applique flowers are sewn onto the surface in a contrast of colour and texture just as in the Fern Green trouser suit to the far right cut in the same entrancing fabric as the first look. A Black eveneing dress composed of beautiful lacework and panel blends the sheer and opaque in a sultry echo of the scrolling nuances of the Rococo. It's enigmatic and captivating and would capture the attention of the cameras.
The opulent Green of the drawing room is replaced by the bright neons of the city lights of 1960's London. A coat with lose Magenta and Black feathers like a giant feather boa is topped off by a large Black gauzey silk ribbon bow at the neckine. Dove Grey gloves and a Black feather cloche hat top off the piece with a small veil framing the face. A large gingham check fabric in Lilac and Silver creates a chic evening dress. Tied with another large Black silk bow at the neckline and a pill box hat. The outfit is finished with a light Black veil reaching towards the ground. The veil motif is used again in a dress of the same check fabric with a neckline composed of a bow twist accented by Scarlet gloves. Vibrant jacquard in a monochrome of Magenta and Black forms an elegant statement gown swirling around the figure with high ruff collar. A large Black bow tied at the neckline sweeps across the bodice in a quasi theatrical gesture. To the right an echo of the Magenta feather dress is replicated with Gold and Magenta feathers; Black large bow paired to Black gloves. These are eye catching confident pieces that will shine under the spotlight.
Much of the collection is interspersed with both daytime and evening looks side by side. Flowers festoon a Scarlet dress cut carefully at the bodice and flowing through to the skirt in the typical formal style of the mid 20th century. The lustre of the fabric shines under the lights of the catwalk and a dress in identical Blue toned fabric is cut with collar and front buttons through the length of the bodice. Skirts in both looks are gathered at a near invisible waist gathered by pin-tucks. A Black ribbon at the neck descends to a lose length of ribbon falling behind the wearer as she walks.
Centre above a figure hugging dress with tiers of ruffles falling from neckline to the hemline at the knees. White fabric is painted with the blooming plants of the Roman garden and four Black velvet bows seal the look of casual neat precision in composition. A light Blue trouser suit with proud jacquard patterns features a double breasted jacket and broad Black silk bow falling behind the wearer as she walks. Without the bow this could be adapted to an office chic look and with it makes a great party impact. To the right a Magenta variation of the White dress, drops the waistline and lengthens the area that the Black bows run down across. A peplum gathered fringe around the waist is echoed by a double fringe at the skirt hemline from knee to midi length. A ruff collar and cuffs add another touch of Rococo to this otherwise modern classic.
Scarlet jacquard weaves around the figure cut into a classic skirt suit with little orb buttons running down the front of the jacket. The jacket cut over the hips presents a traditional and flattering style formula suitable for a host of different environments. Feathers surround a purse on a long chain about the neckline and in a retro styling addition. A dress in vintage Old Blue tones and jacquard print wraps around the model in a flourish with another use of a thick Black silk ribbon at the neckline descending in a train-like style behind the wearer. Erdem was fascinated this season by the story of Princess Orietta taking piantings from her palazzo down from the walls and using the canvases to make kilted skirts as she left Rome. Two outfits above show illustrated silks pressed into kilt form with an outer layer of applique silk. One look comprises a sheer blouse with embroidered detail and a Purple cape covering the shouders in a celebreation of splendor. It's neighbour formed in similar style features a White jacket with antique Golden brooches sitting at the left shoulder. To the right one of the most beautiful evening dresses of the collection appears like a floral painting transformed into an elegant evening dress. Ruched with hints of Belle Epoche style it cloaks the figure with a train incorporated in the rear of the garment.
The Green and Rose florals of that dress transform into a tinsel strand dress with twisted bow detail again featuring at the neckline. With beautiful 3D effect this outfit moves in the breeze with the wearer and a triangle cut train adds a hint of court chic to the composition of the outfit. An alternative to this outfit in Black and Purple with high collar neckline and smooth fabric train gives a 21st century spin on the regal chic of past centuries. Centre above a Magenta lace dress chevronned in Black bands sits lightly on the figure underneath another gauzey sheer silk Black veil. Almost invisible around the wearer it gives a hint of antique mystery to the piece. Another knee-length cocktail dress is plummed with feathers floating around the model in a close cut cocktail dress. A Black ribbon at the neckline again descends to create a train behind her as she walks and it captures the look of smooth beauty that the collection encapsulates. To the right a Rose fabric printed with flowers is cut in the same dimensions as the opening jacket look of the series. A large silk Black bow contrasts the fabric in a dynamic textile play with boot shoes synching in the colour fabric to match the dress just like it's neighbours.
The dropped waist sleeveles dress features the classic deep hem with dipped line that has been used in the past couple of seasons. It's a popular styling feature that adds to the volume and swing of the dress as the wearer walks. Roses painted across the surface of the fabric recall china vases of the palace and vintage textiles. Using rich vibrant colours to re-awaken the senses for autumn, these pieces could be worn across several seasons if you chose. A full length dress caped around the shoulders with a double tiered skirt features the flounces and folds of Bohemian and Spanish style traditional dress with graduated layers of fabric descending through the length and faling to a train. The broad Black silk bow featured on many of it's peers adds a calm through a floral infusion of colour. To the right above two dresses feature Purple flowers in close gathered bunches across the surface White silk. Cut in both shirt dress and cocktail dress style they offer an easy option for styling in the day and evening.
Making a reappearance later in the collection both a Scarlet and antique Blue floral silk embroidered fabric are cut into opulent memorable looks. To the left above a Scarlet above the knee dress cut in circular fabric is ready and set for the party season this autumn and will shoot fantastically well in editorial. It's Blue counterpart takes hints of the 18th century mantua dress with sculpted neckline and bodice crafted into a mini-dress with raised ruched gathers in the skirt. Centre above a White silk dress with Black flowers printed across it's fabric also uses the dropped waistline and dipped hem. The broad Black silk bow at the neckline adds another dimension and could be taken off if you wishes for a more subtle look. To the right a Fern coloured dress with Magenta petals strewn down the surface also features a dropped waist and folded waves of fabric. This full length piece like it's peers would make a perfect coctail dress. Closing the seasonal offering, a Purple dress with abundant layers of fabric criss crosses the body and wraps the model deep inside. These are all the classic styles that Erdem is cherished for by his clients and what they look for. The spirit of the Italian Rococo and swinging London hapily fused as one.
All images credit to Go Runway
Another great talent on the fashion calendar Huishan Zhang spent part of his degree in a placement year in Paris at atelier's including Dior and the glimmer of those lights of the eternal fashion capital have never left his work.
He creates a dream of silk and satin wrapped up in a story. The story of a modern woman referencing the touches of the past, fashion history for the new world and a new age. Writing on my own webpage I will be a teeny bit more candid about who my actual favourites are amongst the current crop of designers showing in London and I have to say that Huishan is one of them. The feeling of opulence through the collection begins as the first piece steps out onto the catwalk. Silk swathed around the neckline of a model falls in natural gathers above sleeves cut in two layers, elbow length Black followed deep wrist cuffs in Rose. A Black lattice shift wraps the figure chicly in abundance to midi-length forming an elegance of gentle contrasts. Shoes are accepted with silk gather in continuation of the colour scheme.
A Black silk trouser suit features a flourish at the waist with a sash tied at the jacket close in an echo of those worn by princes from history. Sleek and composed it's high fashion statement that many observers would take for an Haute Ccouture piece in the beauty of the two crafted garments. Mint enters the collection to partner with Black to create the snap feel of instant harmony. A Black dress jacket carries Mint accents at the collar and bell sleeve cuffs with plentiful use of fabric in precise measure. A Mint sleeveless cocktail dress features double waist detail with a thin seam above and peplum-gathered dropped waist at the hip. The skirt is gathered in tightly ruched pin-tucks giving the faint hint of Bohemian in the exposed seam which clients adore. A Mint silk jacket uses large cuffs slightly reminiscent of the 18th century and matched to a knee length Black skirt it forms a chic look for drinks parties, dinners and autumn season events.
The broad Black satin sash tie at the waist features again in a pastel Rose shirt dress composed of fine and broadening pleats through it's lengths from collar to hemline. It captures the easy elegance that Husihan masters so well. Several bespoke designs appear through this collection and are used in varying ways. The first interpretation of this floral design was in a dress crafted in light fabric. Flowers and their stems appear to grow across the surface of the garment and move with the breeze themselves as the wearer walks. A sugar Rose blouse is cloaked by a jacket accented with feathers from the upper arms to the sleeve cuffs. The delicate Blue flower signature print appears across the fabric wrapped round the figure with a Blush fine pleated under skirt peeking out from the base beneath. It's a charming look that captures some of the heritage of Huishan's home country China, in the manner of it's styling. To the right a midi-length dress captures some of the trend for a double layered skirt visible in some seasonal collections and peplum skirts are both sewn to create a free-standing width to the garment away from the body. To the right the trouser suit gets a make-over with long faux fur strands of a jacket swathing the wearer in comfort above a pair of sleek silk trousers. A Mint broad bow tied around the neckline enhances the touch of a very special type of luxury that Huishan seems to wish to gift his clients with love each season.
Another signature print features in two Black dresses, the first a midi-length dress that is composed of bodice and a shift outerlayer full skirt over Black silk trousers. The dress descends to a train behind the wearer as she walks and the vision of the garment appears to be one that is itself light and fragrant. A more straightforward styling option cut as a Jersey dress would be equally as wearbale in the office as for special events. Midnight Blue (one of my personal favourite colours) is always a handy option for formal evening wear and suit all complexions I think. Centre above a a bodice and neckline appear to be created from the swathes of a ribbon bow around a neckline and beneath graduated tiers of ruched fabric bring the Bohemian style of skirt to the heart of high fashion. Instinctively feminine and beautiful it will charm all who see it. To the right a silk midi-length jacket is tied with a large double if not tripple bow wraping around the figure concealing trousers underneath. It's a chic statement piece that will look glamorous at parties this autumn season as will so many other looks here. To the right a pearl studded lattice, a hallmark of Huishan appears in a bodice with gathered folds of silk at the elbow and in graduated tiers once again in the skirt. It's a romantic ode to the renaissance walking amongst us today.
Volume infused with elegance is at the heart of this collection and a floor-length sugar Pink dress makes a key feature of the graduated tiers of fabric themselves. Drawn together to create first waves and then generous pleats, it's a fountain in a garment. A Rose dress in layers of cross stiches takes the form of a mantua dress with added volume around the circumference of the waist to allow the garment to swing lightly alongside the figure. A Black tweed coat dress also harkens to the 18th century in it's shape and proportions whilst proving a little playful experimentation is a beautiful thing. The broad Black satin bow returns with sugar-pink voluminous cuffs at the wrist give a diaphanous style feature. Familiar themes from this seasons sketch book; neckline bow, Rose sash tie and large fringe border hemline appear in the next look to the right creating a masterpiece that the cameras will love. To the right Rose returns at the neckline with smooth satin silk contrasting with tinsel strands in the length of a coat dress.
Lattice work has been a signature amongst Huishan's collections through the seasons and this autumn it makes a return to his work notably in the closing passages of his eveningwear. Taking a hint perhaps from the paintings of the renaissance a bodice composed of lattice sewn strands descends to a full skirt layered with tulle underneath a shift skirt. It could easily be worn with a jacket or stole on cooler evenings. To the right a Black satin silk blouse sits over a White vest. Sleeved with light feathers it is tied with a broad sash ribbon about the waist with passion and flare. Trousers with Silver diamonds in the lattice frame appear to shine with a lustre reminiscent of the jewelled stones themselves and make a pleasing third colour to complete the outfit. Centre above a dress forms these Silver diamonds into three banded layers fringed with feathers moving with grace as the wearer walks through the room. A playsuit captures a more carefree mood that evokes the high glamour of the 1970's. To the far right a finale piece, that is possibly meant to be bridal combines graduated tiers, lattice layers of diamonds and feathers into one very memorable dress to always treasure.
All images credited to Christopher Kane.
Christopher Kane is one of the most talented designers to come out of Scotland in recent decades with work infused with life and a unique personality. In recent seasons he's headed to the naughty side talking about life in the bedroom in a frank way and how it can be good for people's health and well being. So what did Dr. Kane recommend this season?
Kane continues his interest in plastic and rubber and many of the models in the collection carry transparent perspex lozenge shaped purses that look like giant earrings or pendants of necklaces. Above to the left a Black satin coat dress is fastened with a double faceted belt of both chain and band with chrystal edging meets in the middle of the jacket. This sits above two hip pockets also studded with a crystal upper border and a pretty collar also comprising sheeted Blue plastic as the pockets flaps and belt. It sets the tone for the collection often taking a dip into the jewel box with a cosmopolitan edge. A White silk jacket and peplum gathered mini-dress leaves a lasting impression to the viewer with pocket flaps edged in Red and a Blue plastic collar edged in crystal beads echoing the purse composition.
A chandelier is evoked by lines of crystals strung across the bodice of a model above in the centre. The dropped neckline of this mini-dress features another semi-luminous shot of Blue with a straight line drop to the mini-skirt lengths. It's a dress looking to find it's space on the dance-floor. To the right a White shirt with Neon Pink shapes banded in crystal looks space age with the constellations of the night sky printed across the surface of the fabric. An astral party piece. To the right a Magenta cardigan forms a complete outfit by itself with jewelled seamed neckline and border and pocket fringe detail. You could wear this anywhere, to brunch with friends, to a party or out to drinks, even at home with your grandparents on a Sunday visit to make them smile.
I'm not certain if I'm seeing shapes from space or the nebulous movements of liquids but Kane wants to draw and intrigue the eye with his creations and achieves. A Cherry-Red blouse with billowing sleeves and a tulip rounded mini-skirt in Turquiose sound a note of creative elegance that is pure dressing-up fun. Lace with finely sewn applique forms a pure White mini-dress that transforms heritage lines of traditional 18th and 19th century women's garments into a stunning piece for the spotlight. Whether clubbing, on a date, or having drinks this look is a pretty type of chic that also asks to be taken seriously. A staple we all need is the big chunky good quality knit. Kane cleverly layers two sweaters here with a Royal Blue thick Arran (I believe) over a thinner Magenta and Blue wrap around piece. Layering up is eaasy with this and you could add a skirt and/or trousers to lock in more heat. To the right a Black satin below the knee dress with peplum dipped hemline channels traditional cocktail dress glamour from the 1950's and 1980's whilst also adding some vintage detail in the billowing sleeves in sheer Black lace. It's a universally adaptable look that will suit clients of all degrees of fashion daring and like many of Kane's classic pieces, travel well across seasons. To the right a cut away waist and flared peplum mini-skirt in Magenta are sealed with a round Pink sphere at the centre of the look. Dipping the hemline slightly in correspondance with the natural curves accentuated by the figure, it's a natural playful piece.
A Black party dress with lines tapered to the curves of the figure features a double hemline of peplum gathred Black satin silk in a pretty adaptation of the fishail gown. A plate of colour across the heart is circled with crystal perhaps to symbolise the eternal beating pulse of love and live that we carry within all of us. Two buttons at the hips cinch the waist in below the darts of the dress. Essentially this garment is an exploration of line and fabric that only slightly twists convention. A White lace blouse with high collar is secreted along with a bright Pink mini skirt under a Black coat. Both the skirt and unusually the coat length feture the same dropped hemline with a downward point in the central line of the garment. It's a bold innovation that feels 'just right'. Centre above a single shoulder White dress features a chain-like design that runs across the bodice of the piece through the length of the right arm. A double layered skirt in the collection signature mini-peplum gathered cut gives this monochrome look a defining moment. The single shoulder expression returns again in a long billowing gown that features fabric flowing freely across the model. Truly diaphanous defined. To the right confident colour contrast between a Scarlet mini-dress and Magenta second skirt features a bodice and waistline connected by a double band. A small lace fringe at the decollette adds further subtle movement to the piece and gives a playful contrast in it's structure.
Hanging jewel-like strands of crystals across the neckline return in a series of eveningwear looks that will catch the camera lights. A set of five stringed chains crosses the bodice above a pleated Black silk dress that flows to midi-length. To the right a Charcoal-Grey sweater dress also features this jewellery motif above a wisper thin Black netted skirt. To the right a White silk blouse is strung also with this inbuilt jewellery and circles of crystals also feature around the wrists of the model. A Black silk knee length pencil skirt is given a revamp with crystal chains hung like necklaces in an elongated cut-out section at the left leg. Blending clothes and jewellery together has hapened for centuries but this more literal interpretation is pure art meets fashion. To the right a Dress combines hints of underwear and outerwear with a sheer Black lace bodice joined with a Magenta full skirt drawn in around a dropped waist. It could be worn with a jacket for those a little less bold and proves a counterpart to the outfit on the right with Magenta lace weaving across the upper part of a knee satin lame dress.
The sheer lace bodice proves a popular feature and one is also evoked in each of the looks above in this final frieze for Christopher Kane this season. To the left a deep V neckline leads to a skirt showing another mini-length peplum detailed style with flowing fabric. Again this look could be matched to a jacket for those less bold or hoping to wear it to a more formal setting. To the right a sheer Black lace shirt bodice is trimmed with diaphanous sleeves reminiscent of traditional Greek men's costume. A Marine Blue skirt is also trimmed with delicate lace giving hints of boudoir chic in a wrap around fastened style. To the right a Terracotta dress also framed and fringed in lace could also be an able night into day dress to wear at any point of the year. To close a Black lace tunic descends to a Silver metalic skirt frames on either side by voluminous Black lace sleeves bringin a touch of belle epoch chic to an otherwise firmly 'here and now' collection.
Images credit (C) Edeline Lee
Edeline has placed performance and expression at the centre of her collections for the past few seasons and the expressive dance of Spring-Summer 2019 was moved forward to a series of talks by 33 well known women from arts and society. Mary Beard the Cambridge educated Classicist took to the stage first followed by fashion journalist Hillary Alexander, the House of Lords’ Jane Bonham Carter, Lynne Franks, the Reverend Dr. Christina Beardsley a Church of England priest and Evelyne Glennie a well know Scottish percussionist. Taylor Swift, Alicia Vikander and Olivia Coleman are just a few of the famous face that have worn her clothes.
The collection opened with a strong colour statement in vibrant Terracotta. An ankle length dress cut to emphasise the waist is trimmed through the length of the sleeves with peplum gathered waves. It provides a tonal contrast in the dynamic of the line of the piece. A jersey dress of gathered pleats at the circular neckline and waist defines the gentle curves of the female figure. An easy option for day or eveningwear with maximum versatility. A Rose light sweater with gathered ruching descending across one shoulder to the hip is an innovative styling idea. Paired with a Terracotta skirt that features a sash gather at the waist it carries Lee’s signature waves and flourishes with a new twist.
Using gathers isn’t only limited to the waistline with an arced pleat featuring across the right hip of a Rose dress down across the upper leg of the wearer. Even though set across only half of the dress it manages to define the waist in the dress entirety. To the right a midi-length long sleeves Rose dress features ruched gathers at the sleeve elbow and a central belt that gives the bodice the appearance of light sweater matched to a skirt.
The collection move to a lighter series in Sugar Pink. A shirt dress tied about the waist with short sleeves is an easy to wear inter-seasonal piece that has great wardrobe adaptability. The same could be said for much of the collection this season with a multitude of soft focus style and glamour that will shift easily into different environments. A simple tunic dress is transformed into a creative statement my peplum frills running the length of the sleeves. An ankle length short-sleeved shirtdress features a small border at the waistline to give the impression of two separate garments perhaps.
Soft Pink continues in an ankle-length skirt with White side buttons creating a subtle linear definition. An Apricot V neckline light sweater matches in a second light tone on the skin cut with generous fabric. A sight adaptation with a short shirted Apricot shirt and Rose pencil skirt features pin tucked pleats at the sleeves and graduated tiers of peplum gathers at the waist, hips, knees and hemline. It’s a look with the character to be a beautiful party piece. A fine Grey pleated sleeveless dress is composed of conical curled ruffles. A light shirt style bodice is bound by a drawn in waist if tiered ruching. The length of the skirt flows seamlessly to the midi length. A Grey short sleeves blouse and circular cut Dove grey skirt with signature Edeline Lee dipped peplum waist signal another reliable stylish outfit that will take you from day into evening. A Dove Grey cocktail dress is held in place by pleats honing the garment at the shoulders aside from the cut to the figure over the hips. It’s a classic like the rest of the collection can be worn by clients across the generations.
A V neckline knee length cocktail dress with a thin waistband and two peplum fringes at the hip and above the knee is a simple addition of volume to the look. It features one of the signature bespoke prints designed for this collection, a palette of small flowers. A classic desk to drinks look or a special party piece for your collection next season. To the right a raincoat with deep pockets is tied with a waist chord at the centre. Light in its structure, it’s also warm and easy for the wearer to put over layers or pack and fold for travel. Centre above a Pink base colour is decorated with Blue and Black curled lines. Asymmetric shoulder design with cut away and dropped sash design gives a creative touch of inspiration. To the right the classic peplum detailed dress is translated into a clear Blue. Making a straightforward style note the midi-length tailored shirt dress is an easy formalwear option that will serve a board meeting as well as meeting friends for dinner or a school parent’s function.
A series of buttons running the length of the right hand side of a dress makes a new statement shirt dress variation. It's another professional stylish look that will take you from day to evening. The partial ruching theme spread asymmetrically across the garment returns in the second look to the left of the above frieze with a Green blouse thus styled above a Blue skirt in the same vein as the previous dress with button lines down the centre. A Fern Green cocktail dress with peplum fringes at the side creates a dual length skirt in a pretty eye catching style. A cocktail dress featuring plumed shoulders is banded at the elbow by fine gathers. The skirt cut to above the knee makes it a practical and stylish look for work. A sky Blue blouse vest features loose structure half open sleeves draped across the body and a Fern Green skirt is cut in elongated A-line with slight peplum flare at the hem. Another simple but memorable piece of kit to add to the wardrobe this autumn.
An Edeline Lee adaptation of the pinafore dress appears in mid-Blue featuring a bodice composed of nine individual ruched layers of fabric. It captures the easy to wear nature of the collection that still easily manages to show the figure in a flattering feminine form. Another signature textile print is featured in a long line cocktail dress that features the simple style traits of V neckline and chord tie at the waist. To the right a Blue ankle length dress features a chord gathered around the waist descending to a pink tucked raised hem border giving fluted fabric flourishes. Ballooned sleeves cinched at the wrist add an extra flourish to the easy international looking dress. To the right the stunning signature applique painted fabric returns with a coat tied with a simple chord belying the complexity of the garment construction
Below you can see further detail from the reverse of this coat, a masterpiece of construction. A soft Cream White blouse with sleeves similarly cut in an almost 1970’s style at their length is accompanied by a skirt in the same captivating heritage-style fabric. Fitted at the waist but flaring in the length in an A-line to a tiny peplum fringe it’s fresh but still every inch visibly Edeline. To the right a cocktail dress features a low neckline encircled with a chord that is tied at the right shoulder below the neckline. A fitted bodice and rounded tulip skirt cut in the classic cocktail lines are one of the most beautifully decorative pieces that you will see this season.
Images credit (C) REJINA PYO.
Rejina Pyo’s collections partially hinge around her ability to do new things with items from the wardrobe that are easily familiar to many people. She captures a new form of style eclecticism that many can relate to. A White hooded sports top and lose cut Sky Blue trousers sit cosily underneath a Caramel plush coat. It’s warm but also light enough to wear open in between seasons. A White suit is cut with broad trousers and paired to a jacket that resembles outer wear more closely that the classic cut blazer. Broad lapels fold nonchalantly over the upper jacket and a belt tie left loosely open. Deep pockets emphasise both practicality and sophistication whilst beneath a blouse, tied at the neckline is a myriad of patterned colours creates a soft contrast to meet the eye.
A White shirt with finely cut collar sit under a Salmon Pink trouser suit with crisp lines and cut. An outer jacket echoes the same classic blazer tailoring in Chocolate featuring an extra line of buttons and creates a unique double jacket effect in another styling move that seems simple and yet obvious but a first from Pyo, I think. A White silk blouse with sports style hooded top blends the sophisticated and sporting together in a simple move. A Chocolate Brown dress fitted softly to the figure completes the soft stylish appearance. Another similarly cut blouse is part of a look exploring more textures with a tweed woven skirt and a tortoise-shell resembling belt and ankle-length coat. The soft White of the sports style blends calmly with the autumnal colours.
She often cerates dresses and separates using two bock colours and this season a fascinating Chocolate and Cream coloured dress with a surprise addition. A Cream-Gold silk scarf is tied across the neckline, running through the fabric of the dress to create a sash across the right shoulder. Chocolate Brown loose fit ankle boots complete the look. A dappled water colour effect of neon-pastel flowers set on an orange background is banded across the bodice and lower sleeves by peach fabric. Loose cut trousers in a soft velvety Chocolate fabric with a sash-tie at a dipped waist sitting on the left-side hip. Skye-Blue pumps in an adaptation of ballet-style chime with the brightly coloured blouse and part of the seasonal accessory offering, a large shoulder bag. Perfect for college or a weekend away.
Centre above a Yellow-Gold lame effect skirt and jacket suit nod to the 1980’s with a soft pastel-neon signature print blouse underneath. A Caramel boxed shape clutch bag is easily large enough to hold a cosy winter puffed sports jacket to banish any cold spells. The White sports blouse returns again paired to a pencil skirt in the signature dappled watercolour print and a Sky-Blue light coat with broad lapels and collar creates a stylish colour pop for the darker days of autumn. To the right another re-working of 1980’s glamour in the form of a single shoulder cocktail dress with front knee-high split. Each shoulder features a statement puffed sleeve above at the left and smaller below at the right. An instant classic for the party season.
Blending Pinks and Chocolate sounds like a perfect plan and above to the left a tricolour of Baby Pink, Rose and Chocolate run in a horizontal set reversing across the bodice and skirt. The dipped neckline of the bodice is accommodated by a triangular cut of the three colour toned bodice. This sits in a natural harmony with the three coloured lengths of the skirt each containing fine pleats. A Brown all weather raincoat keeps away the chill with Sky-Blue boots nestled around the ankles giving an extra style twist. A loose-fit slightly oversized blazer jacket is tied at the waist with a Chocolate belt leaving the buttons of the double breast detail as a decorative feature. A Chocolate jacket hem border and soft matching trousers create a chic yet related look. A Lilac coloured box purse in a classic handbag style completed the read to work/play look.
A White trouser suit is tailored with a central Mother of Pearl button at the jacket and trousers are softly tailored around the model as she walks the piece moves gently with her and a Gold blouse with gathered upper bodice fabric and a pretty neck-tie completes the look of cosmopolitan elegance. A clutch purse at the models hand creates a flower petal form with Chocolate piping at the bag upper seam. To the right a Neon Mint and Salmon feature on contrasting chevrons across the surface of a vest top with a tortoise shell print fabric forming a long side-tied wraparound skirt. Another large canvas tote provides an ideal option for getaways and large project folders. To the right a similar look is created in more muted tones with a semi-sheer Chocolate light sweater dressed with a Black pvc style double side-tied skirt. It’s another easy look that could be worn in many places.
Wrapping up for warmer days a Grey knit sweater also comprises scarf length that forms an outer wrap over the shoulders of the wool tweed coat. A Yellow-Gold pair of corduroy trousers completes the warm look for winter with a check-cloth handbag wrap-folded Nane tote. A shimmering Golden dress in liquid-like flowing fabric is accented with a high rise bolero jacket at the neckline. Gathered with ruched detail below the clavicle it makes a simple elegant party look for the new season. The staple tan bag is created in a large utilitarian size with ample room for laptops, notebooks and a spare wrap or jacket. Again it’s another look that would be handy for autumn.
Centre above the sports style White shirt is transformed again into a sophisticated blouse with a central panel rising in harmony with the natural shape of the thoracic cavity. Working a slightly maritime theme, Navy Blue trousers fluidly move in line with the wearer and an Olivia clutch purse completes a chic elegant look. A Sky Blue shirt matched to a puffed jacket carried in a signature pouch sits under a Navy Blue vest with White flowing trousers. It’s a long lined look again with hints of cruise chic that will also see the wearer through the winter months with its calm layers. An Olive and Aubergine light shirt and skirt create a sophisticated style in the subtle tones of autumn belted at the waist in a Sky-Blue contrast. Chocolate slouched knee length boots and a Caramel clutch purse blend colour notes seamlessly.
Chevron stripes in Cream and Lilac work horizontally across a blouse teamed with a patent Black skirt. Stich detail is shown in the outer layer of the garment to proclaim the cut and styling of the piece. Centre above a Charcoal Grey dress with fine pleats in the skirt length and cut away closable sleeves mixes hints of the baroque with 21st century international styling. A Grey loose cut trouser suit with wrap around jacket tie actually features a double layer in the jacket length. A Silver lame blouse with gathered cowl neckline and stray bow length offer a discreet classic day into evening look for the party season.
Supriya Lele was a new designer that I discovered this season and I was lucky to be able to see and shoot some of the final looks of her presentation. Her vision and persepctive is unique on the schedule. She descends from a line of many generations of female Doctors and wants to explore the empowering strength of fashion to realise the qualities that women posses inside of them.
Lele shooses to emphasise the functional and utilitarian in her clothes. She creates garments that people can wear in combination or apart to form a daily uniform challenging convention or perhaps re-writing their own. A tank top bouse and sheer trousers are worn with a Fern Green dress in overlay with ruched detail forming a central column and defined bodice. A Teal coat to the left tied at the waist is an easy winter staple that will add a subtle colour pop to your wardrobe and a trousers and long shirt-dresses also are a versatile wardrobe option. Wearing an outwardly visible bodice is a common theme that Lele expresses through the collection both incorporated into the garments and shown as an external garment in their own right. A Mauve dress above to the right and Cream jacket both play witht he idea of conventional structures and bringing the inside to the outside.
The collection features fabric used in different ways to enhance the expression of movement around the body. To the left and right two coats in Black polymer also feature thick bands of Ginger faux fur in a textile contrast. The layers closer to the skin are also looked at with sheer silky wrapped farbic draped around the body to form blouses and dresses. A pale Blue dress structured around key lines features a side-split that alows freeer movement. Anatomy and how the body works seems to also be an influence on Lele's work and given her medical heritage, it's hardly surprsing. To the right a Golden Yellow dress features an outer shirt dress tied with a belt styled over a slimline skirt. I think this would be an itneresting piece to potentially style clients in, with daring tastes who want to make their mark in front of the camera.