Haute Couture Autumn & Winter 2021-22 part 2

Armani Privé

Images below (C) Giorgio Armani

The second chapter looking at this season opens with a strong classic burst of style from Maestro Giogio Armani.Whilst sticking to a rainbow colour palaette taking a tour through mettalic hues bursting with life, a lot of contemporary classic looks walked out that would offer the same style reassurance and clean-lines that his clients have been well used to in the years before the Covid-19 hiatus. Whilst the world seems to ahve changed in some ways, or like the whirl of the objects in the sourcerers apprentice coming to an end, it will take time for many things to settle back into familiar or new patterns. But for the clients of this part of the fashion industrya nd teh legion of buyers and mass market designers who look to these trends across the world, it was another step forward from stasis, to reutrn to productivity, design and enjoyment.

The collection opened with classics that snap with the crisp sensibility of Armani style that clients all over the world look to. Satin smooth finishes were the order of the day, with day to eveing suits walking forth in front of the guests. Trim Black jackets sitting between waist and hips showed delicate permutations on a central them, shoulders slightly accented and with a single antique-style button at the bodice line or waist alternating around a series of three. The neckline itself was decorated with a sash of silk tied in a swirl, simple bows or running down through the neckline in an echo of a small scarf. Rippling silk in a stormy Blue-Grey contrasted the unquestioning Black in softly cut pencil trousers and wider leg tailoring not quite reaching the culotte frame.

Central above the Blue transposed to a pale Sky Blue in loose fit trousers and bandeau bodice teamed to a light demi-scarf of stormy Blue-Grey. A quiet entry of colour into the collections palette. The texture of the fabric used for the trousers and other looks going forwards in the collection had the texture of silk-satin whilst embodying the essence of both liquid and light in it's shimmer. Light moved like water around the wearer emphasised in the next look lilting back to Blue-Grey with an ankle length dress fitted at the bodice and waist flowing out into a long tulip-formed skirt. It's a 'neat and chic' type piece as I call it and an easy one to call upon for the Autumn-Winter party season but also could be snuck into a late Summer or early Spring selection too for a special occasion. To the right a jacket, blouse and trouser combination works through three fabrics in a tiered sequence and incorporates something that I sometimes use, namely a chemise that is also a mini-dress in quite plain fabric under a jacket and over trousers. It's a good otion as it keep you cooller sometimes in the evening or on warmer days. Here the trio of fabrics ran through embroidered floral design onto satin silk in a light Sky Blue, through to pleated lengths in a stronger fresh tone at the vest and back to the lighter colour in above ankle pin-stripe trousers. Realtively 'busy' for the collection, the nuanced colour tones unite the sense of harmony.

A jacket and trouser combination in the same fabric creating the illusion of both water and light featured side buttons favouring the left of the piece, running from the neckline to above the hips. The circular cut at the neckline was echoed in the rounding of the base line of the jacket and loose cut trousers reaching to above the ankle secured a comfy fit. The collection was decked with an array of clutch bags and this first look in the frieze above featured a broad trapeze shape useful for both work and leisure. Another dimension to this fascinating fabric was also it's metallic hue that added a further third layer to the design aspect. The second look above to the left with it's firm panelled bodice, graduating to pleats over the waist, fell to a full free flowing skirt. It's a beautiful look playing with contrast in many ways, through the forumlation of the design but the unity brought by the look of the garment created the note of simplicity.

With a nod to both the 1930's and traditional Arabesque design, three quite different trouser suit looks walked forth next. A beautiful Sky Blue look with a jacket fastened in a single button at the waist had 'Aladdin' hints in it's design with short sleeves and soft faint peplum detail at the waist. Lower calve cut trousers where accented at the base with embroidery and feathers adding a small hint of extra volume and fabric contrast. A light Sage Green pair of trousers matched in tone to shoes and box clutch is teamed to a soft shift layer jacket embroidered with flowers and soft escalloped crescent shades. A trans-seasonal look that could easily also work in Spring and Summer as well as the cooler months. To the right, the first look walking into a series of neutrals brought a chic and verstile tailored jacket sitting above the hips matched to rouched silk trousers descending in ombre degrede from lightest Taupe through to Salmon Pink at the ankle and continuing at the shoes.

The warm neutrals passage continued with Oatmeal and soft Blush tones in two twin jacket and skirt combinations. Combining classic twentieth into twenty-first century style with the soft sheer fabrics that echo the Regency era, that I personally adore and the two looks above could be easily worn in the following season at different points on the globe. Two contrasting jacket styles; one with left side buttons in the echo of some military styles and another in the classic single-breasted blazer with hip pockets style sit lightly on the figure. Double layered silk chiffon skirts retain the modesty around the figure with a Golden band at the base of the first, paying tribute to heritage textiles from the Arabic world and across Asia.

More defined in it's line, the next look paired a White double buttoned jacket, again cut to the hip in Mr. Armani's favoured metre, to gently cut trousers sitting lightly on the figure in a soft flurry of mettalic fabric. A shift layered garment with an extra layer underneath the outer shell layer of fabric was embroidered with a budding vine or tree reaching around the legs in an echo of the human form of growth. To the right a barely visible beaded sheer blouse sat beneath the mid-calf length sleek light autumn coat cut in the same fabric as matching pencil trousers. It's a very adaptable look, that for work or very formal occassions, could be worn with a blouse. To the right, the silk trousers return, this time adding a foretaste of the rest of the collection with Silver-Ivory fabric lightly brushed with a soft focus in-house floral design. Here began a signature note of the colleciton to be carried through. Teamed with the lightest of Grey-Mauve silk jacket, and a discreet statement box clutch, it's event ready.

A graduated form of the collection signature print appeared in a silk jacket, bound by clip at the neckline, it showed a glimpse of the Sliver bandeau bodice underneath harmonised with generously cut trousers. A slim ring of Gold encircled the waist and the jacket itself cut to the characteristic above-hip length was cut with wide sleeves echoing that of the classic Japanese Kimono. Like most of the collection it speaks to both elegance and comfort. As before the mettalic glints of the seasonal fabric shine through as a coat dress in Silver-White floated along with the soft Spring-Summer 2022 patternwork covering it. Mid-mauve trousers barely visible but perfectly tailored twinned to almost flat shoes allowing the feet we love to relax also.

Almost in a study of versatility the next four looks actually strike me as two pairs as I come to write this collection up. In the first, loose cut trousers in a soft Mauve-themed colour veering either Pinker or Greyer, yes. A jacket at the waist with a lower border band, yes. The difference, one in Steel-Grey sat open showing a shimmering Rose coloured bandeau below and the other in Mauve with slightly more Lilac to move it away from the trousers below. Both are teamed with a bag channelling vintage lines also, however you could wear them a day or two apart at different events and they wouldn't look to samey I think. To the right the second paring above admitedly features trousers cut to different lengths but the cobination of floral print on silk in either a jacket or trousers matched with a soft mettalic, such as Bronzed trousers or Pearlescent-Silver waist cut jacket is really versatile. Both jackets, as with many in this collection would also look good with skirts.

An inversion of the ombre degrede of the end of the second image panel above feautred in two contrasting jacket styles. Firstly a jacket that could also be worn as a dress descended from light Salmon at the shoulders through to Silver Ice White at the mid though hemline. Beneath the jacket, a sheer chemise in embroidered mettalic florals translated to a Bronze pair of trousers and harmonised clutch bag. A jacket in the same fabric as it's preceeding neighbour, nipped in at the waist also featured the same embroidery surface detail that came close to quilted fabric. Mauve pencil trousers accentuated the long leg line of the model showing the look but a gentle tailoring of the fabric would flatter most leg lengths and shapes, and this is Haute Couture, made to measure, just for you.

Centre above two looks that struck me as possibilities for a bold evening bridal outfit option. The first halter neckline design in White is draped in an outer shift fabric with fairy like sparkles surrounding the lower hem reaching upwards for about a foot. Soft flowers sewn in crystals bring extra light to a garment sewn in silk that loks like a flash of lightning. Next in Blush, a bodice worked on diagonal lines with crystals to create a diamond shaped lattice made a strong, yet fairytale like statement and a sheer skirt gathered in abundant fabric swirling over the hips of the model, cascading to her feet. It would be another beautiful piece for Autumn but also a trans-seasonal piece that I could see at a Summer wedidng in Italy or another country with balmy warm evening air. Blush turned to the most beautiful Apricot next with peplums featured in a dual length and then a multi-length tiered dress, taking the look decisively from day into evening. These are looks that could fit in into several recent decades and whether for a Red Carpet event or something special for just two, it would be a joy to wear and also flattering to many complexions. There is more than a hint of 'mermaid' about them also which makes me think of warn evenings on a terrace above the ocean as Summer draws to a close.

Back to Blush, a dress moving on the bias around the figure descended from a single shoulder encircling the figure in a spiral of mesmerising waves. It's a simplistic themed piece perhaps but that is the key to it's charm and effect on the eye. Something of the Sea lingers still with the gentle waves of the fabric echoing the sea anemone. To the right a bold sheer chemise studded with sequins in a chain-mail come lattice weave was accented with fabric flowers at the neckline and high sleeves. The thick band theme returned to trim the garment at the waist above a broad diaphanous full Summer skirt that added a touch of bohemian to the evening looks that was in itself perfectly swirled in soft floral fabric edged with Grey-Blue mists.

Centre above the lustre of mettalics returned with a soft Rose dress composed of separate bodice and skirt panel. The effect of the ability of the fabric to retain and hold light was seriously striking in this piece and the effect of seeing it walk is something similar to liquid, or the surface of a river or seashore waving in front of you. It's eye catching and a naturally flattering style. Moving towards a Dusky Coral, a long dress cut closer to the figure is accented by a sleevless crystal beaded vest. Another look that had the feeling of being trans-seasonal, I would say it could be taken out and enjoyed at anytime of the year. At the left shoulder a rosette of Butterflys and soft fabric rosette brung jewellery and adornment into the garment. To the right a light coat teaming with applique embroidery flowers starts at the shoulders in Blue-Grey before crossing into a dusky Grey-Rose hybrid in the lower lengths. Electric Rose, if it can be called that can be seen underneath in the long wide cut trousers to add an irredescent bolt of colour to the overall look. Beautifully crafted it was a skillful blend of fabrics.