A Blush of Rose
Spring-Summer 2015 - part 3.
Vin and Omi - backstage fun and catwalk shots from their London Debut show.
Floral hints come into the collection and this style touch gives an adapted twist to the themes of earlier looks. A blanc white canvass top sits above a beautifully coloured skirt in a reflection of the artist and his or her blank canvass and the colour when it's hit the easel. I love this skirt it's dotted with life and movement and the pleats are clever and give both movement and freedom of form and shape.
Symmetry and asymmetry are played with here in bountiful scope and the black dress to the left opens the eyes more to the colour and use of mixed texture in the collection. I'm a fan of this design and I'm hopeful it will gain a large following in the next season. Lastly above left three more looks again working broadly to explore colour, texture and contrast. There is a lot of joy in these clothes and the two blouse and skirt combinations above are classic formal day into evening pieces that will have a long life in your wardrobe.
Below is a simple final surprise blessing from the designers that I was so grateful for after spending several hours on my feet running between several shows before seeing this one. Very much appreciated by everyone leaving the show. I chose the Banana Toffee ice cream.
I love the collection colour scheme here, the strong bold colours are making a powerful colour statement. Stripped down this simple palette focuses the eye on the details of the style design and the collections architectural genesis. We all know when something feels special and right and it's very evident that the TATA NAKA twins have found a design point that has given them a lot of joy for this season. Difficult for me to make a personal choice of favourite looks here as I like a lot from this selection of looks.
Here is a tableu of looks from the presentation, In straight forward relief you can see the use of geometry and method of placement. It's eye catching and shows the wide variety of different permutations at work. TATA NAKA where focusing on clean lines and deceptive simplicity on these looks and I think this comes across well and the studio placement concept illustrates this. What looks simple to the eye is very complex on further inspection.
The dress farthest to the right above shows this very neatly. The use of a single colour gives the picture of serenity but a glance a little closer at the details reveals a multi-layered approach with many different contours. Waves and lines, pleats and smooth finishes all blend and create a unified piece. The partially bare center waist line with a cleaver jig-saw fit echoes the curves of a woman's form while also echoing the resonance of architecture.
I open this look at the collection with one of the leading pieces. This sculpted one piece black dress uses avant garde experimental shape. I love the curves around he collar bone and the one shoulder strap gently rests the dress on the frame as it cloaks the model. She looks confident in what she's wearing and how she presents to the room. The next look to the right works with black and white monochrome theme that is a key trend moving into Spring and Summer 2015. The cropped top gives emphasis to the waist and defines the decollete with the gently sculpted curves. Shape contrast is also present between the close fitting top and the fullness of the skirt.
The next look to the right makes another contrast between the smooth upper bodice and the pleated folds of the lower bodice descending over the waist. Gently cloaking the femininity of wearer, none of these looks are overtly sexy, they all leave something hidden away from the eye and allow for freedom and movement within their structuring. It's formal design but not too formal or too rigid for practical occasion wear.
The inspiration for this collection came from architecture and what more fitting place to base it at than at Burlington House, the home of many learned societies and a splendid work of architecture. Before the fashion came into view I was already swept away by the ceiling it's stunning backdrop.
For Spring-Summer 2015 the TATA NAKA duo have found the works of several leading architects as their inspiration. The buildings of Frank Gehry and Zaha Hadid proved a stimulus for creation. Attention was paid particularly to the expression of curves, line and symmetry and with structure meeting with creativily freedom.
Striding brightly down the catwalk these girls looked bold and confident - working the avant guard with the new age and clear bright energy. For me this is conceptual fashion, standing in it's own place bursting with life and ideas and attracting interest.
The look to the left here echoed the artists pallet in the top part of the garments composition while the white skirt contrasted with simplicity. Another new age mermaid stepped forth in the pink dress with a Japanese Koi design (the good luck symbol) extending to the calf leg wrap.
To the right a look at the final passage from the show - it was a lovely introduction to something completely unique during fashion week.
I was really excited to see the first show of New York based designers Vin and Omi at London Fashion Week and as well as being able to see them make preparations backstage, they where cheered on by two of their biggest supporters Jennifer Saunders and Debbie Harry. Alongside them British television presenter Laura Whitmore. Ant Waller PR and his team looked after everyone well and it was on with the show.
Macaroons - sweet treats - and all things nice where very much the theme. Candy's including Marshmellows, Licorice Allsorts and Dolly Mixtures where worn on the nails by both both boys and girls. These fun playful sweets we remember from childhood and still treat with occasionally transformed into edible accessories.
Models in make-up getting ready for show. I love backstage, it's always full of great energy. Above one of the girls is laced into her platform boots. It's a playful glamrock - esque look that shouts fun and games.
Furthest to the right a shot of one of dresses. Sheer with latex Rose detail this look has distant echos of the cabaret world of New York and packs a punch with free spirited spontaneity.
Backstage was as abuzz as always at shows and the Sweeties - both boys and girls - where getting made up to the max before the show began. Lots of laughter filled the room and the make was bold, abstract and creative. It's great to see the looks come together and see a bunch of young fashion warriors don their warpaint before striding out onto the catwalk.
Above the the right is one of my favourite accessories of the collection. A beautiful pair of wedge heels painted in the renaissance pre-raphaelite style but with a contemporary feel was all set for one of the young ladies to wear down the catwalk. The young Venus looks back meeting our gaze, reclining with her cat sleeping quietly beside her.
The Vin and Omi Spring - Summer 2015 collection is called R N R MACAROON and sweeties where the flavour of the month. The guests lapped it up and it was a very popular debut receiving lots of attention on both sides of the Atlantic. I would describe their style as modern, eclectic and playful with lots of fun and daring thrown into the mix.
It was a high energy show with a lot of smiles on and around the catwalk and people visibly enjoying themselves and the clothes. It's just what we all love to see new designers enjoying the experience of London and fashion and having a blast.
The collection came to life very vividly on the catwalk and this collection very much captures a fun dress up and go vibe. These models are in costume with their faces painted and concealed. This was pure dress up, having a good time and disco diva fever that would ignite any dance floor.
Above left is a very playful all in one piece combined with chunky wrist band that was candy covered from head to toe. Next the rose tassel dress working a slight neon mermaid look. Center left a star spangled jacket in white was followed by a shimmering dress and just for good measure an animal print dress was thrown into the mix.
Roksanda's trademark bold prints swished and swayed down the catwalk with confidence for Spring - Summer 2015. I love her clothes simply put. There's a simple direct bold clarity about her designs that catches the eye and inspires the heart.
Opening on the left with a bold dress this is a collection exploring both contrast in colour and contrast in line at the same time. Brought to life in high fashion tailoring. The skirt and sweater combination next to the right forms a strong suit. Leading to the right the next series of dresses are chic and feminine and strong. Lines flow, skirts flow, symmetry abounds and expands around the figure. Watching hopefully as the collection came out it was wonderful to see the movement in the pieces. The center two pieces concentrate on a simple silhouette; while the two below to the right offer a more structured shape with careful attention paid to the belted waist cinching in the figure.
The colour palette dips through blood orange, blue, pink, light green and black early in the collection. Shape is transformed with echos of the uniform and utility appearing in the design themes. Tunic tops and high cut shorts add a sports look to the collection for fun in the sunshine and while an ever-so-slightly boyish look creeps in this is tapered down by the petal-like folds and ruffles of elongated collar design.
Contrasting next; neat square cut collars sit a-top tunics with an echo of the form city shirt. The uniform-esque style reverses from formality to comfortable, casual chic showing a feminine lightness. Clear lines in tailored trousers bring the eye downwards in a smooth colour transition. The bright pink with small notes of black appear in both dress and all in one suit. With black curves appearing on waves over the figure at the waist of the dress and across the top of the trouser outfit; they create both harmony and movement.
Furthest to the right the bold colour design off shoulder summer blouse pairs neatly with the dark shorts underneath. The clutch bag works the collections colour schemes and sets off the design.
As the collection moved on into evening wear there was a lot on offer in terms of flexibility of pattern and cut. Folds where alternately restrained and also set free. The first look the left below contained a vibrant collage kept in place by a silver belt. A sharply tailored trouser suit follows on with both undulating lines and clear crisp style.
Sheer fabric dominates the later part of the collection with a plethora of variations on a colour theme blending tone and texture. A navy blazer and light blue shirt partner with a mid calf skirt revealing the figures form and lines. Black and midnight blue feature as colour themes leaving no doubt that these are stunning glamour looks for the evening accessorised simply with a silver belt. The final look from the selection uses sheer fabric in navy blue embracing fluidity once more and feminine beauty, grace and style.
Antonio Berardi - images with kind permission.
Antonio Berardi's look at Spring and Summer 2015 opened with a sea of Blues and Greens. This gentle maritime theme eased the audience into the new season and with each new look that came to the catwalk Antonio gave another example of his flexibility of style and understanding of what makes a women look great. Abstract flower prints blended with sharp cuts and shapes carefully sculpted around the figure. In the first look below to the left the dress and coordinating coat offer a practical stylish wardrobe combination. The blue dress in the center is pure marine beauty and to me it also has hints of contemporary Grecian style. Soft light fabrics dominate the next part of the collection with shapes falling softly over the figure.
These are glamour looks for day and evening events that can be enjoyed in many places. Mixing light diaphanous silk blouses with trousers with more defined angle and shape these looks show Antonio's play with form and contrast within a collection. The look above to the right includes beautiful printed silk trousers. Shimmering with light and life on the catwalk this radiates the energy of long Summer Days.
A powerful colour burst of fiery oranges and reds take the collection into hotter days and nights. The bright colours of southern Italy and Sicily return in a flamboyant burst of rays in this part of the collection. Tunic dresses and jackets paired with shorts, vests and trousers created a diverse range of colourful combinations. The second look to the right has a look of Art Deco influence to it with structured lines and form. There's plenty of scope within the outfits here yet the collection keeps unified with composed colour themes so it doesn't seem too busy. Urban modern style flirts with hints of simple country aesthetic in the form of muted floral patterns embellished with bias cut lines.
The colour scheme moves on with the bright colours of the Sicilian Summer day changing into the muted shades of the urban city evening. Dresses draped across the figure on the bias make a great choice for evenings and the structured close fitting bodice both flatters and defines the figure. Waists are delicately nipped in and first two black dresses in the series appear to wrap around the figure hugging it in.
Jackets and suits play a part in creating a sophisticated look and composition of form varies form and style of figure. Metallic colours came into the frame and I was very taken with the black coat sitting over the black, gold and silver studded dress below to the left. The semi sheer jacket below center teamed with figure hugging black trousers is a very pretty look playing with the idea of the visible and hidden within the same look. Black and red set a striking contrasting colour tone. This combination gives a strength and fiery passion to the mood of the collection.
The collection moves into it's final phase with a transition to lighter pieces and applique embroidered looks. The first look below to the left is a beautiful fairy-tale summer look. The light skirt of the dress falls gently over the figure. The detail in the embroidery is stunning and makes this and the successive pieces in the collection using the same themes a joy to own. The translucence emphasises the beauty of the figure and light floor length dresses with trailing skirts are always something fun in the summer time.
The suit to the right is a perfect sophisticated look for any event in the coming Summer months and the thigh high dress to the center will keep you feeling cool through long summer evening events. The collection moves on with an exploration of multi-textured looks and then into cool whites.
Whether it was be-jewelled or crystalised, embroidered of applique Antonio found myriad ways to express his feelings for the next season. To put simply in not so may words, this is a collection of fusion in fashion.