Beauty, Grace & Style

            Dior

              Valentino

     Elie Saab

Bouchra Jarrar

Every Season Haute Couture brings us new images of the height of fashion, the pinnacle of the fashion buying market and the apex of creativity. This season I've noticed a 1930s, 1950s 'Lady of the Manor' or 'Lady of the City' to coin a phrase, edge to looks in many collections.

I've chosen this look to the right as my headline look for the Season. I love the close fitting Grey bodice of this piece that delicately highlights the curve of breasts in a bowed form. The Black and White log-sleeve Bolero gives a playful alternative to the ubiquitous Hounds Tooth that is appearing everywhere.

But this is Haute Couture, it's not supposed to be ordinary, these are clothes of fantasy made real and in their excellent execution and attention to detail they set the bar  for what many women aspire to collect in their wardrobes.

At Dior Raf Simons produced another amazing collection that took a playful spin on the 1930's and 1950's eras of elegance. Note in this outfit to the right there are the bold yellow shoes peeping out beneath the tranquil colour scheme of the rest of the outfit.

This look to the left really caught my eye. I love the colour contrast using the White Silk and Charcoal Grey. Raf is an innovator and he is gradually re-working the Dior brand into new model. His inspirations for this collection were African Tribes and the Geisha styles of dress from Japan. Colour and beading snuck in unexpectedly through the collection giving a twist to tradition. European ropes of pearls are swapped for African Bead necklaces.

Also it's interesting to look carefully at the folding and draping in these pieces. The dress to the left looks like a traditional European composition, very Dior, but there is definitely something in the cross over folding that, even with European buttons added to me looks Japanese.

The collection was photographed by Patrick Demarchelier, Willy Vandeperre, Terry Richardson and Paolo Roversi who captured each of the looks in detail before the girls walked the collection. As the show ran through images of looks were displayed giant size on the walls behind the Models as they walked. It's also good to have this record of pieces for clients to see. Seeing the clothes live in a show is wonderful because you can appreciate the textures, cuts and movements first hand but even then you will want to go back and study them whether you are a buyer, client or follower of the evolving history of Dior and the other Haute Couture Houses in Paris.

Valentino's Haute Couture collection for Autumn-Winter 2013-14 really is a collection of contrasts, there are a broad spectrum of themes but where Maria and Pier-Paolo's hands touch they create pure perfection. The two pieces that I selected above to head up this review highlight this. Above left the sheer Black dress is simply stunning and is one I would order for myself without hesitation. The embroidery and lace detail are captivating it's truly a piece that your eye can't move away from. 

This season Valentino have moved in a direction that, as a girl about town who loves the country, I find instantly recognisable. Tweed and Cashmere have entered the Valentino lexicon producing pieces that are in harmony with the English Country and Town Lady look that is blossoming everywhere at the moment. I have to say I love it! At Valentino they give this look their own perfect treatment. The look above right runs the Checked Tartan at opposing angles giving just a tiny hint of Italian flare.

I picked these two as my favourites from the Black/White tie reception pieces from the collection. I love the hue of the dress to the left, not sand, Lemon or Ivory but something in between. The gentle folding of the Tulip fluted skirt sits perfectly at the front of the dress and this dress had a wonderful rhythm of movement on the models frame as she walked.

There is a certain type of art that strikes you as clear, pure beauty. Like the workings of a very precise antique clock that chimes with succinct clarity. There is a careful order and harmony in this collection.

Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccolii are two designers who have truly invigorated a brand. It's always tough to be the first people who take the helm of a House after the founder has retired from designing collections but they have flourished and grown into a very harmonious working duo who appear to be slowly, carefully taking Valentino into the future with a strong defined House style. Molto Bene. It's a considerable quiet achievement.

Here to the Right is another Black evening dress that is one many, many women would love to have in their collection. I see pretty strongly the Black Kimono influence here in the wrap-over draping and fawless Black Silk. It drew smiles and gasps as it passed on the catwalk and it is definatley a piece I would cherish for a long time. Absolutley versitile and a dream to accessorise it's the type of investment piece that many courture clients will buy and wear through many years.

Elie Saab's Autumn-Winter 2013-14 Haute Couture collection provided a cascade of dresses eagerly absorbed by his audience around the world. 

Elie Saab's specialist repertoire is for Red Carpet Glamour and Bridal. This collection didn't disappoint. True to his tradition of keeping things on theme he worked with a number of key colours in his palette and then played boldly with intricate design and applique of sequins and crystals and embellishments.

A Royal influence was given for the collection in terms of it's structure and lines and the colour palette moved through a series of Jewel inspired themes.

The collection opened with Ruby coloured dresses. As is now the trademark for Elie's work. THese were generously detailed with Chrystals to catch the light. Looks 2,3,5 and 7 were my favourites from this part of the collection.

Deep Saphire looks followed and I particularly enjoyed 18 and 21. This latter dress was worn by Alex Yuryeva and was fantastically embroidered with a beautiful small train trailing behind Alex as she walked. From this sequence I also particularly liked

look 24 worn by Sanne Vloet.

Holly Rose wore a memorable outfit in Blush colour in look number 28. Korean Super Model Ji Hye Park's dress in look 29 was a majestic diamond themed piece.

Moving to the last colour in the Regal palette Emerald came to the fore. Looks 33 and 36 worn by Vanessa Axente and Catherine McNeil respectively would definitely go on my list.

Elie Saab closes his show with a spectacular bridal dress but this season my heart was stolen by the dress worn by the bridesmaid at the far-back Anastasia Ivanova. She was the third bridesmaid holding the train. She looked like an Angel in a shimmering Silver dress deftly holding the Bride's train in her angelic fingers.

I'm really excited by the mood of the clothes coming out of this young Design House. It's fantastic to have another Haute Couture House on the scene that is young, vibrant with it's own look.

The look which I'm thinking of as British inspired continues with more tweed and Tartan. Tweed, the wonderful warm staple of all our wardrobes gets the playful Italian touch with lace detail appearing from beneath in glimpses creating a sexy contrast that invites the eye.

Also here the Italian Renaissance makes an appearance in a very inspirational use of print and craftsmanship making stand-out contrasting pieces that bring two forms of traditions together. The piece above, furthest to the left is a traditional tartan-patterned dress transformed with an overlay of scrolling Baroque relief and at the for arms tweed has been added to give a third texture.

The pieces running across to the right show classically formed tailoring at it's best. I see the renaissance coming in also in the simple swept-up hair styles of the girls. They look like they should be signing in a choir or studying the Lute or the Madrigal in an Italian sitting room a very long time ago. These are among my favourite hair styles for models this year so far in any collection as they show the girls faces beautifully in simple profile and don't distract attention from the clothes.

The collection also moves through an interesting play between and Beautiful Sandy-Fawn Colour and Black. This look to the right of text is to me a girl in fawn who looks like an Angel. There is a a beauty and feel of beatified running through this collection as the later pieces below also reminded me of the High Art in Chapels all over Italy.

All this strength and power of imagery doesn't run away with itself though. These pieces are understated and will suit clients and make them look fabulous whether they are in their teens or in their eighties. It's a very versatile collection. The three looks above are modern and fresh and are debuting obviously in this collection but they could be worn by clients for many years to come.

I love the cut-away detail of the dress to reveal either the figure underneath or the Golden-Fawn of the under layer of the dress. Perhaps Valentino's girl this season is the Golden Fawn!

You couldn't look at these two pieces above and have any doubt whatsoever that you where seeing Haute Couture at it's most masterful. These are two more this is Art in the medium of High Fashion and these pieces are the examples of why I'm drawn again and again to write about the Haute Couture and Haute Joaillerie. Fashion is a medium of High Art and should be recognised as such.

These girls sweep along like Catherine de Medici or Elizabeth I. The look to the right like the Fawn-dress above is tailored about the shoulders in a way that particularly for me evokes Renaissance paintings and representations of Angels. The elongated A line form that flows down the figure emphasises a divine height that gives the girls a superhuman presence. And this is before your eyes carefully examine the extraordinary work that has created the garments. Life comes into them as branches and leaves fan out over the surface and model is transformed into a vision of an earthly Goddess. These are dresses of Women of Power.  

These next three looks are a fabulous celebration the skills of the Atelier. To the left there is another 'Queen of the Ocean' dress Aphrodite alive and walking in modern times, perhaps going to a ball or simply making her presence felt.I love the clutch that the model is carrying. It looked like Mother of Pearl to me and beautifully iridescent.

The middle look was earlier in the collection than the other two here but I've placed it with them as I think the 'wow' factor in the design puts it's on a par with these pieces. Again I think there is a hint of Angelic design thereabouts with a butterfly/Angel motif across the top of the skirt.

Lastly I've included a stunning dress that I spent quite a while looking at. To me it looks Russian and could be an alternative to the traditional wedding dress perhaps. I also see a strong connection to courtly dresses in England in the late 16th and early 17th century. The tradition of designing s dress covered in floral or natural details was very popular in this period and there is a famous painting of Princess Elizabeth Stuart painted c.1610 by Robert Peake that illustrates this perfectly. There is also a painting in Powis Castle in Wales of Lady Herbert c.1620 waring a similar dress.

I think Valentino are re-awakening the tradition of the Woman's dress portraying life and nature in as many forms as possible. The rich Red velvet of the upper part of the dress above again adds to the rich Baroque feel of the outfit. This collection was a real joy to see.

The Bouchra Jarrar girl is a busy girl about town confident in her own style. These are young fresh looks. As ever it's wonderful to see French slimline trousers cut so exactingly in the manner of the couture atelier.

I love the four looks above. The cross over wrap of the shirts echos a styling often seen in dresses. I feel that these pieces have an almost Arabic twist. The White jackets that drape over the shoulders are really interesting in their texturing. Knit wear contrasting with the sleek trousers below.

I have to mention the belt detail which I think is fascinating. The chains draped over one side of the hips also remind me of Arabian Women's clothing and the tradition of Gold chains forming part of the adornment of the outfit.

Here are a number of slick looks in the collection for occasion and evening wear. I've noticed that there are many different pieces including some of the dresses that can be interchanged mix and match style within the collection. That makes these investment items a pretty flexible tool to have in your wardrobe.

The broad lapel jackets give a slightly masculine Androgynous quality to some of the looks and I think this broadens the appeal out. This is luxury tailoring but it's also very wearable day to day.

The Black dress above is simply cut and draped to perfection. Split to the knee it gives a small train behind the girl as she walks and flatters the wearer in it's free-flowing shape.

Here to the right are two more great Jacket and Trouser looks. I really like the way Bouchra Jarrar are focussing on clothes that can easily be worn around town and are very flexible.

These suit combination pieces could be put together for Red-Carpet or media event and could also be worn on a variety of social occasions.

Very chic and very fun. The trousers look so very comfy.

Below are three dresses that I loved when I saw them. Playing with a three or four colour theme these swing dresses are packed with character and very easy to wear.

In general I think blocking together three or four contrasting colours is a great way to put together an individual look. Also blending texture as well as colour these dresses have a very striking appeal.

They are recognisable to the House as it's a look and style I havn't seen quite before. I like it very much though and I think it will have wide appeal. These are fun lively occasion or casual pieces in keeping with the vibrant mood of the collection.

I noted that the colour palette remained true to muted almost stone-like tones throughout. Silken Black like Obsidian, Sand, White Marble and Grey Granite. It's just an observation but I think it's noteworthy. Clothes often give the wearer, the woman an extra magical strength when she steps out in them.

I'm very interested in this young House and will be following their next collections coming up.    

     Versace

Versace opened Haute Couture week with a fabulous walk from Naomi. She looked very happy and 100% stunning.

Naomi is a long-term friend of the House and there were big smiles all round. Versace offered a glittering world of Sexiness. The feeling at the show was electric and Naomi was very warmly welcomed back to the Versace catwalk.

Sultry, yet demure, Versace's woman is striding forward using her beauty and strength to take her forward in the world. These are Goddess pieces to crave.

Luxury and glamour meet head to head in a wonderful combination. This first look to the right worn by Naomi was a Jacket Dress that was carefully tailored to show the beautiful Lingerie underneath.

The curve of the breast is emphasised through partial revelation and the embroidery that you glimpse beneath the perfectly tailored garment is superb. The unzipped open shoulder and split thigh gave a playfulness to the piece and Naomi looked a Billion Dollars.  

The metallic based colour theme continues with a shimmering sequence of dresses. I see an Art Deco theme here running forward from the Rock Star Girl look earlier in the collection. The Blue and the Red dresses in particular remind me of nights out in Manhattan with the lights of the town shimmering against the glass of the buildings.

I sence a 1920s, 1930s theme here and the detail in the embroidery and beading is something that you want to look at in close up. The dresses hug closely to the girls bodies yet there was still considerable movement as they walked. These are carefully crafted wearable Couture pieces that the client will feel comfortable in through an evening or an event.

Versace have recently returned to the catwalk after showing their Haute Couture

privately in the Salon since 2004. It's a bold move but one I think will be mutually beneficial for the House and for new and existing clients.

The collection continued with a really interesting metallic-hued colour palette of Berry, Blue and Black. I loved the Jacket above left that was made in two different types of leather. It's a perfect Autumn Berry colour and a great City look. I love the belt cinching in the waist. This theme of two different textures of leather is continued in the next suit piece. The use of line emphasises the figure and the two trouser suits that I wanted to show you above right perfectly embody style and line. Again the lingerie is present at the core of the outfit in true Versace style the woman's beauty is enhanced and celebrated in a sexy celebration.

Versace's girl means business this Autumn. THese suits show the simple form that Versace are favouring this season but in simplicity they have found perfection. I love the use of the wrap-around Zip motif.

The way it highlights the mainline curves of the models figure is really inspired. Instead of a seam you have a feature detail, marvelous.

The suit to the left is one that I would wear about town or also to an evening or formal occasion. To the right, this slightly more daring piece would be great for parties. Again I think the use of the zip image is great for showing where the outfit reveals more underneath. Glimpsing the beautifully structured lingerie underneath in sheer lace contrasts perfectly with the outer form of the dress.

Here are two more pieces in the slashed style. I love both THese evening dresses. On the whole this collection is a shade more toned down than former Versace collections. The sexiness is less overt and more simply stated. There is still glamour in spades in this is a tour de force of evening wear at it's best.

The mauve-lilac dress to the left is one I would expect to see on the Red Carpet somewhere in the world in the next few months. It would suit many skin tones and would accessorise well with Jewellery.

All though this collection the pieces really hug the figure and emphasise fluid lines. The silhouettes are very clean and uncomplicated. This is fashion that travels well.

Another wonderful dress in a dark metalic Blue to the left. I noticed the laticed jacquard look also echos the forms of the Lingerie revealed in part through the collection. I really like this effect of structure it emphasises simplicity.

However this is not a stark collection by any means there are many playful soft feminine points about it and lots to enjoy.

To close the show Naomi returned in another wonderful piece that looked vintage Versace. Every inch the Rock Chick look, if a little more grown up than before. I hope we see more of Versace on the Haute Couture catwalk next season as they bring their own special stamp to the top tier of the fashion world.

Armani Privee

Jean-Paul Gaultier

Alexis Mabille

Giorgio Armani Privee opened with a series of beautiful outfits for day and evening. The colour scheme was truly beautiful. A soft focus mix of Champagne, Platinum, Ivory and Black. With a Silver screen-esque high glamour this is suite of looks to compliment any wardrobe world wide. It's wearable, bankable Haute Couture. I featured these look from the opening of the collection that drew the audience in as they passed. Each one of these is a look I would order and, notably, all work on a wide range of forms.

Haute Couture is every designers opportunity to do something extra-ordinary and for Giorgio Armani this meant taking his chic, some say a tribute this season to Princess Charlene of Monaco, to another level. The lace-work detail in the suit to the left was sensational. This outfit would draw admiring looks, at a Private event or at a Red Carpet or State Occasion. Once again I notice that there is a wonderful combination of beauty and even sexiness without being revealing in any manner. This allows the garment to be cross cultural. It could be worn in a variety of locations around the world by a number of diverse clients. The one common thread they would all have would be exquisite taste.

Nude Blush Pink, one of my favorite colours and a colour that suits so many is here again in the look above to the right. The skirt has an almost mesmerising shimmer as it moves and floats around the figure of the model. The fur trimmed sleeves give the silhouette of the Angel wrapping round the form of the model. The combination of the design and the lightness of the fabric and fluidity of the movement give a very masterly touch of grace to the look. Armani definitely has it's own strong brand of chic.

The four looks above have all got the captivating Armani Prive stamp on them. Giorgio himself did hint at a 1930s influence for the collection and I think you see the nuances in these looks. The first two looks to the left to me speak strongly of the Art Deco Era. The Black lace dress is interesting, it's attractive and alluring but the real beauty remains hidden behind the nude silk under layer of the skirt.

The two Blush and Ivory coloured dresses to the right use feminine floral. The Rose flower mosaic of the dress to the center cleverly draws the eye across the figure. The dress to the far right channels what we all imagine full length Haute Couture shift layered dresses should be at their very best.With the outer layer of the skirt forming a slight train as the model walked, it looked as light as a feather as she moved on the catwalk.

The two looks to the right show the defiles well wrapped for the coming season. These clothes are practical as well as perfection in high tailoring. They are visibly, luxuriantly warm.

Here are two contrasting suits playing with the Leopard Print design. I love the Leopard print gauntlets of the jacket in the look to the left. Coordinating with the hosiery this gives a simple striking statement.

In contrast the full skirted look to the right uses different Leopard print in bands. This is a clever theme to use on a skirted outfit and draws the eye down the figure so a lady wearing a full skirt still looks svelt and elegant. Also note the Beehive hair style painted with the Leopard print look. Very fun. My lasting impression was that this style looked quite Russian in inspiration.

Bold colours were very much evident for the rest of the collection and it felt to me like some of the looks where also channeling a 1990's feel. I was very taken with the Black trim Magenta Leopard print Jacket, clutch and shoes coordinating with Black trousers and Black Leopard print tights. It was a great combination of the current continuing love of Magenta and Black and the enduring draw of Leopard print that I mentioned above.

There's a modern look of the Moulin Rouge about this collection and it's fantastic. Working within an uncomplicated palette of Black, Red, Cream and White for most looks, JPG concentrates on providing the audience with a slick and sensuous collection.

There's an interesting use of a swirl patterning effect in many of the pieces. The circles emphasise and accentuate the feminine curves of the figure. Another fun twist to the collection are the hats. With a little point rising up from the crown tilting forwards at a jaunty angle these pieces show JPG's collaboration and idea exchange with his friend milliner Stephen Jones.

I believe they've collaborated on several collections and it's another great example of Stephen, a vibrant British talent finding a place in the world of Parisian Haute Couture. There's such a great history of friendship and alliances in fashion and other industries between London and France, I hope it continues to grow and prosper.  

Here are two more looks that continue the same colour scheme with feel for International high glamour with a 1930's twist. The embroidery applique detail in the jacket to the left is sensational. It catches the light wonderfully as the wearer moves. The subtle combination of Ivory, Platinum and Blush colouring gives the light feeling of sensuality, luxury and good taste that the Armani clientele will respond to. The floor length dress to the right gives another example of Giorgio's mastery of the Haute Couture evening dress. With superb attention to the  tiniest of details it's a subtle take on high glamour evening wear.

As with a few of the collections I saw I detected a play on the theme of the Angelic party muse in the outfit to the right. With feathered shapes arced around the shoulders and a gentle train flowing behind, this is a fantasy wedding piece that shows JPG's virtuosity in playing with ideas. The applique embroidery with many shimmering crystals caught the light fabulously.

The outfit that I've put into the left was another piece that had a big impact. This was a high glamour collection. If you look closely you can see the clever re-working of the Leopard print theme.

The dress and loose fit coordinating jacket are superb. I noticed that the jacket looking a slight shade darker served to highlight and emphasise the shape of the figure underneath to further flatter the wearer. It's a joyous little number that I'm sure you and many other patrons will like.

Giovani Boldini was hailed as Alexis' inspiration for this collection. This has definitely proved a very fertile breeding ground for ideas as Alexis' collection was over flowing with a number of different looks and styles. It gives his collection for the season a unique look along side other couturiers. It's as if he is channeling the original idea of the uniqueness of the bespoke Haute Couture piece itself to show the diversity that can be achieved within one season by a House.

Alexis' offering this season was an expression of delight in what Haute Couture can be. These dresses and suits where fantasy Haute Couture and no eye could fail to succumb to admiration of the beauty. Included above are several floor length evening dresses that in a Romano-Grecian style typify the beauty of high fashion and craftsmanship that we associate with Haute Couture. I also love the Peacock Blue dress above to the left that has feathered effect lace detail around the shoulders. I noticed in several collections the wing-like forms made an appearance.

Center above the closely fitted Baby Blue trouser suit cuts a 1930's style slightly androgynous shape. With strong lace embellishment at the shoulders and the arms contrasting with the ruched and folded front of the bodice of the garment allowing for a gentle expansion of the garment across the figure.

And the beauty kept flowing, more and more looks, each a glamorous re-working of his themes of inspiration. Giorgio also mentioned that he was looking to the image of British High Society life in the early Twentieth Century. He cited the portrait photography of Cecil Beaton was a particular inspiration to him. The silhouette with short cropped hair, clothes styled to fit close to the body before subtly flaring out at the lower lengths, is true to the era.

With feathers or Pearls, a clutch bag or an ornate bracelet to accessorise; Giorgio's women are immaculately prepares for the Jet-Set and/or the film set. Reigning supreme in which ever world they chose to inhabit.

The Black lace dress above is ultra fine and light in it's composition. Coordinated here with beautiful silk trousers it could be worn int he day and the evening as a stand alone piece. Giorgio Armani is renown for his evening wear collections and what I find really interesting is that his work, more and more encompasses pieces that cannot be strictly defined as either day or evening.

More of the looks from the collection show Alexis truly producing some exquisite high tailoring designed pieces. These are looks that will readily find a home with clients at the high end of the fashion market and for many people following Alexis's work it's interesting to see how many interpretations he has found from this artist.

There were a lot of looks from this collection that I wanted to show because he brought in so much variety. The models looked like new age 21st Century Princesses as they moved through the Salon in Paris. Set against a floral backdrop that enhanced the colours of the gowns, it gave the audience the feeling that the girls where characters from the paintings that had come to life.

I've enclosed the shot below of the models in the salon as it gives the visual representation of what we recall from our ideas of how Haute Couture has been shown and represented in Paris over the last 150 years.

To know this world is to love it. I genuinely believe that Haute Couture is a form of art that meets with business to produce a passionate force in the world. It's beauty that really makes people feel good when they see it and lifts the heart. Enjoy.