A Blush of Rose
ablushofrose.com
Part 2 of the fashion journey into autumn.
Paul Costelloe
Paul Costelloe, sometimes know as 'Father of Fashion' is one of the most experienced designers on the London Fashion Week Schedule as one of a handful on original members still showing. The father term also references his families broad involvement in the business as well as his long term in-put into shaping the contemporary fashion scene today in Ireland, the UK and around the world.
Images shot by Andrew Vowles.
Shooting backstage is always an absolute pleasure at his shows and it's one of my favourties. Asside from studio visits, it's the best way to actually see the clothes and craftsmanship close-up as the looks are prepared to be worn by the models. Paul is also one of the designers that really gives off a 'parent' vibe around his models and his was an early introducer of healthy snacks and always takes time to speak with the models to see how they're doing. It's a genuinly nice atmosphere, not tense or stressy. This is pretty crucial as you'll glimpse in some of my pictures girls on their phones working on their fashion month schedules as they prepare to walk. You need to be strong, healthy and tenacious for a life in fashion. Above to the left Paul dances with one of his show team singing between show turns.
The beauty look this season was clear and understated with skin lightly brushed with Amber on the cheek, eyes were highlighted with a soft black mascara and defining crimson arch following the contour of the eye shape. Lips where lightly painted with a light berry colour finishing a natural evening face.
Hair was swept back at the temples with some girls have a half-up, half-down style. It was lightly reminiscent of the early 1980's but also had a millennial twist. For some girls the look coordinated with their outfits in a more sporty direction and other looked like they where going to a cocktail party rather than clubbing. All of them looked ready for action though with the trademark gung-ho Costelloe spirit, doing things your way and with confidence.
The collection opened with a series on looks in Emerald and Olive green with quilted fabric proving a popular medium to dress the figure in using hints of out door wear from the men's and women's wardrobe worked into style that used both flourishes and sharper tailored lines. Leggings where a popular coordinating feature of several early collection pieces showing healthy well honed pins and elongating the line of the silhouettes to make the models look like goddesses.
Textile work was an interesting part of this collection with a wide series of permutations on the classic woolen tweed and hounds tooth weaves. Above to the left a small square weave almost imitating cheese cloth beautifully works it's way into a mini dress falling gently off the shoulders, long sleeved and belted at the low waist with a seriously desirable satchel from Paul's new collection. A beautiful tweed tartan coat in one this season's key bespoke weaves is light yet warm and another flexible wardrobe addition of the type that Paul is good at creating. Broad lapelled and mid calf in length it sits over one of the seasons' centre piece stylish separates. The collection takes a more conceptual turn in places with a hint of Japanese formal wear influencing the next wool jacket with it's out-sized sleeves. To the right the mini dress returns in the berry-toned tartan plaid version of the mini dress.
Wool one of the most eco-friendly of the natural fibres plays a large part in the collection adapted into numerous garments. Above to the left a neutral camel light coat is another easy classic followed by another pieces that explores broader cultural influences and works with a free imagination. Angled pockets and deep cuffs give an historic feel to the look. Seasonal mini dresses in black and purple look neat and serene but also on trend while to the right a white crisp shirt sitting above a deep pocketed pencil skirt spins 'lady of the manor' style into a contemporary style that can be worn across any age group for social or working attire. Textile production is something that Paul and his team take very seriously and part of the collection is produced in fine Italian mills.
Some more close-up beauty shots that will feature on my social media chanels through the new season.
Paul continues to have a thriving career dressing royalty, celebrities and women all over the world who believe in good tailoring. As is customary with Paul's shows it
closed with singing and romance. Love walking hand in hand with fashion
was the ultimate take-away.
A statement blood-orange coat brings a
form bolt of colour into the autumn gloom to come. Another staple piece
as I term it shows that Paul is thinking of many women's perspectives as
he designs and considers his collections. It's a hall-mark of his work.
The light linen blouses intricately designed and finished bring a fresh
look at some vintage forms and styles to the catwalk. Ruffles, pin
ticks and most importantly plenty of fabric to give it space to move and
breath on the wearer give a feeling of assured comfort. These
characteristics when teamed with one of the mini-dresses makes a
distinctive dual fabric composition. To the right a quilted dress and
jacket transpose hints of the earlier opening looks into softer fabrics
that suit formal wear occasions.
With many years of experience behind him designing for luxury, ready to wear and corporate; Paul Costelloe is very experienced in turning his hand to creating different forms around the female figure. The swing dress above to the left, did exactly that with a beautiful movement contrasting with a bodice that clung close to the figure. Ruffles with 17th and 18th century echoes, you can never have to many. A nod to the 1980's was also detectable in the white blouse that was a very talked about piece of the collection. The next silver suit showed that it was easy to cross between leisure and workwear within his offering and to the right a cream ankle length coat had a feel of modern majesty about it.
Always looking for ways to innovate and explore the multi-coloured dress to the left and right with it's throwback Balenciaga-esque sleeves channels some of the spirit of the 1960's for playing with form and style while utilising the latest weave technology to assemble a look of stratified colour. It's fun but serious fun. Centre above silk printed in navy, lapis and gold has an almost Egyptian look while antique scrolling regal prints on the cowelled mini dress to the right bring the touch of regality a little further forward in time to the era of the Stuarts and French Bourbon Courts.
Evening dresses are always composed with imagination in Paul's collections and the sparkle effect gentle found it's way into a number of fresh designs. Many great for parties and some pieces with red carpet appeal. In the 5th decade of his career he is still looking to experiment and create styles for the fashion savvy who are confident enough to dare to be just a touch different. He's also delightfully creative with length with mid thigh mini dresses and ankle length numbers also complimented by slash-cut pieces and dual length looks.
With a number of seasons under his belt Markus Lupfer is one of the current mainstays across the last decade on the London Fashion Week circuit and his is a reassuring name to come back to if you want to see what a German instinct for design creates when blended with the effervescent life of London. Above to the left you can see the opening look of leggings, print dress and wool gilet tied at the waist neatly summing up duality that can often be found in Lupfer's work. A Prince of Wales check trouser suit is given a female twist with a loser fitting jacket than a man's style would use and playful necktie and looped chord tie at the waist. The trousers are matched with a floral print blouse and sheepskin coat accented with floral detail at the cuffs forming a gender neutral look that makes a smart statement. To the right pretty floral print dresses are tempered with sport stripe leggings and a bomber jacket and polo neck respectively. With a kit bag to hand Lupfer's girl could be going to sports practice, college, or her office and is completely undefined.
As the collection moves into it's second phase a slightly more feminine look seems to dominate with skirts and dresses, but who's to say that more men besides those in Scotland won't start wearing them one day. Above a range of easy-wear looks comprising skirts and dresses are pretty flexible wardrobe additions. To the left a sheer skirt and navy sweater are both appropriate for weekend casual and non formal work-wear. The light blue and blush pink floral long sleeve dresses are handy editions to the busy wardrobes of working women and here as in many parts of the collection you can see that Lupfer is looking to possibly a broader age range than some people (not myself) may have perceived his work to fit. A sports tote in tweed canvas is a genious piece with floral embroidery adding a light-hearted twist.
Navy and blush pink (two of my personal favourites) form central colour themes for this collection. A soft pouch sits at the waist of the model centre above tied with thin chord to form a belt at the waist of the navy sweater. with a white blouse peeping from underneath and clash/coordinated with a dual print skirt of both florals and poker dot this look has a slightly bohemian feel without loosing the edge of cool style. Lupfer continues to play with this look in the next outfit this time with a patterned blouse while it's companion uses a sports jacket to express boundless energy and female strength encapsulated within the colour harmony.
The Prince of Wales check returns in a pared down weave taking a hint of fern green into it's composition. In a skirt suit that also includes boots incorporating the fabric it looks a little like the traditional moorland autumn shooting uniform has been converted into sensible town and country wear. A claret coloured zip up top underneath keeps the cold at bay with the over sized cut of the jacket literally reigned in with a belt. The collection returns a little closer to Lupfers most recent style explorations in later looks. The gauzy sheer dresses with their beautiful embroidery, as familiar to his fans as the carefully crafted luxury bombers and fleece gilets. Overall he dialled down the colour in this collection but nothing was lost in impact as he curated a collection that looked somehow more sophisticated than in recent seasons. These flowers where in full bloom and heading into the world with a purpose.
He's an absolute legend and a thoroughly nice man. Jasper Conrans' invitations are a thrill to get as he is one of the designers that composes dream wearable pieces to slip into the wardrobes of women across several generations. Like Costelloe he is also one of the small clutch of founding LFW designers to remain showing on the schedule and has ammassed considerable respect from his incredible body of work. Showing in the heart of Claridges, itself the beautiful jewel of Mayfair hotels, it felt apt to celebrate his work here for the new season. Early looks celebrated a sports theme with a close cut black trouser suit completed by a cross body band top. A quilted ivy green contemporary two-piece outfit sat in tune with the current trends for melding sports wear and classical day and evening wear pieces. A handy waterproof look for work or play crafted with expert attention to the lines of the figure. A light knit sweater looks like the dream soft piece to cosy into come autumn and channels the vibrant colour of the falling leaves. To the right a light whispy camo' print dress sits under a contemporary parka showing a practical flare for allowing clients to buy leisure and outerwear as well as evening and day wear from their designer.
Vibrant colours are always a key trend for the autumn and help to put a spring in the step as the days get cooler. The dress above to the left was part of a series that brought the warm glow of colour to our eyes. A practical two piece outfit composed of carefully styled waistcoat and pencil skirt works classics into an easily adoptable style and form. Also highly desirable is the magic tote that appears in several colours through the collection. I call it that as the simple tear drop shape is a perfect super simple design. An olive green trouser and jacket combination sit neatly on the figure showing Jasper's impeccable hand. Next a soft berry coloured sweater and knee length skirt accessorised with an olive tote creates a carefree daytime style to be worn in many places. In an adaptation of this look a long-line pair of trousers and blouse with soft coat creates a very desirable 'total look' for cooler autumn days.
A chic crimson sleeveless dress and knee length fern green boots make a nod to the style of the 1960's in London. There's a sense of the free modern pop feeling about this look. To the right pops of umber, berry and pink contrast playfully with fern green slip-in loafers. The effect is somewhat like seeing the girl made into a flower on the catwalk with legs taking the place of stems. Centre above and right a piebald patterned below the knee coat is styled with white blouse and dark brown trousers. A look that could be worn anywhere internationally. Hints of youthful rebellion are carried off in the next waistcoat and skirt ensemble with an envelope purse turns a questioning eye to structure and shape.
Clean white lines in the form of jackets, skirts and light blouses offer some easy capsule pieces to add to the wardrobe. This is perfect cross-over work and leisure territory that Jasper is an absolute master of. You could pick up one or two pieces or several in a mix and match style and the blank canvas retains plenty of character for you to light from within. Again alongside the honed beauty of Jasper the little hobo style sacs seem to fit just right preventing the complete look of the outfits from seeming too perfect. The blue and black dress is a modernist piece channelling some of the 1960's new approach to style and structure with fabric
technology of today. Above to the left a blue, violet and black sweater and black trousers create an easy wear smart/casual combination with the soft sweater fabric giving gentle protection from the elements while creatively adapting a colour theme. Two chic dresses in earthy brown explore the varied texture and design possibilities that Jasper can create in a seemingly simple piece. Sitting just above the knee they can be worn alone or possibly combine with some of the more formal jackets found in this collection. A sequined brown top and sheer silk skirt make stylish combination for work and play and if you want to be a little more daring a sheer vest with Orange blaze makes a strong statement in juxtaposition to long line brown satin trousers that flatter a long slim profile.
Dresses and clean crisp looking contemporary evening wear are a strong art of Jasper's offering each season. A beautiful black dress and light stolle to the left are a perfect party season look and the outfit could be worn without the wrap to less formal occassions. The autumn colour palette that gives plenty of choices in amber, brown, Olive and white with large shirt subtly patterned shirt dresses walking alongside closer cut two piece combinations. Closing with a billowing diaphonous gown that took a little influence perhaps from Jasper's second home of Morocco, the collection showed that Jasper still has plenty of ideas up his sleeve to crete the modern international capsule wardrobe that can blend easily into our lives. He's a treasure and as always I'm thinking about what pieces I can pick up.
